- Quincy Single-Stage Air Compressor - 3.5 HP, 60-Gallon Vertical Tank, Model# Q13160V

• Start-stop switch
• Large 2in. gauges
• Tank has ASME safety valves
• Easy-to-reach manual tank drain
• Comes with 40W oil in pump

I bought this Quincy to replaced my venerable Sears 30 gal 5 HP whose tank was starting to leak air. I am impressed with Quincy's build quality for their "consumer" level compressor. With its 15 amp 230VAC motor, the 3.5 HP rating is conservative. The Sears had only a 12amp motor. It is easy to wire the unit and it comes with a 1/2" NPT ball valve at the tank's 3/4" output port. It pumps strongly without losing its breath when I'm sand blasting and I find the noise level is quite tolerable.

I have had to address some issues for future maintenance of the unit. I bought it online, so I didn't see how the air pump sits very low on it's platform. Its oil drain port is a bit recessed in at the bottom and it's about 1.5" in from the edge of the platform. It's awkward because there is no space underneath to slip in a funnel or a chute to direct the spent oil into a container. I could foresee the mess of 1 QT of old oil spilling under the pump and down the tank and onto the floor. The plug, BTW, in not an NPT plug but a 8mm x 1.25 metric screw with a copper washer gasket. A 6mm Allen wrench fits it.

Making a permanent drain adapter pipe: Luckily, I have an engine lathe so I was able to drill a 3/16" hole through a 1" length cut off from a steel 8mm screw. This was inserted and JB welded into one end of a 3" long 1/8"NPT pipe nipple leaving about 1/2" of the thread exposed. I had previously cut square one end of the nipple for a new washer gasket, and tapped the hole to receive the screw. The other end of the nipple I fitted with a 90º elbow and a 2" nipple stopped with a cap. I applied some pipe dope on the threads and quickly swapped the screw plug with this L shaped adapter. Some oil leaked out but was absorbed by a cloth laid underneath. Now with this adapter aimed downward over a hanging empty plastic yoghurt container, the compressor is ready for future oil changes. I plan to run the compressor a few minutes beforehand to warm the oil and to reduce viscosity.

I also thought of a temporary, but much simpler solution for directing the old oil. A 5-6" length of 1/4"OD copper tube could be bent to a gentle 90º curve at one end. The other straighter end is wrapped with 3 layers of vinyl electrical tape and this end quickly screwed in when the drain plug is removed. Have a container already in position and a layer or two of cloth slipped under the air pump to catch any spillage. Be careful not to let this tubing come loose while draining. Replace the original screw when done. BTW, the manual doesn't specify but the new oil (1.1 QT of a recommended heavier 40WT.) is filled where the pump's breather tube is taken off.

Another modification that I have made to this compressor and others under my care is to replace that hard-to-reach and hard-to-turn petcock way down at the bottom of the tank. First mount the compressor onto 4 rubber isolating pads and 2x wood spacers for more height clearance. A 1/4" NPT x 1" long nipple is inserted into the tank's drain port, then a 90º elbow and then a 6" long nipple. Fitting a ball valve on this nipple puts it at a much more convenient location. The valve's output port is fitted with a brass 90º 3/8"OD compression fitting pointed upward. An 8" long copper tube is inserted and bent down like a goose neck faucet spout to empty the condensate into a plastic jar on the floor. To drain the tank, simply just reach down and crack open the ball valve. Have a rag handy to cover the jar to absorb the oil/water spray. This will encourage you to drain the tank each time you walk by.

With these two modifications, I fully expect to be very happy with my Quincy Air Master air compressor for many years to come.