- 150 psi max tank pressure stores more air in the tank for longer tool run times
- 2.6 SCFM at 90 psi allows for quick compressor recovery time, per ISO1217
- Air coupler and plug are factory installed on the air hose to save user labor and to prevent leaks
- 6-gallon pancake-style tank for stability includes water drain valve and rubber feet
- Low-amp 120-volt motor starts easily in cold weather or with an extension cord
- Equipped with a durable oil-free pump for long life and no maintenance
- Shroud, handle, and console cover protect vital components and make unit easier to carry
That being said, I went out and picked this model up today at Lowe's for $159. Exactly as advertised and exactly what I need.
However, there have been some serious reviews from serious users cautioning of the ABSOLUTE NECESSITY of BREAKING-IN your compressor BEFORE USING IT!! Somehow, if you don't break it in properly beforehand, you may be literally wrecking your expensive hardware before you even get to use it.
EXCEPT THAT THE OWNERS MANUAL THAT CAME WITH MY MODEL C2002 (Type 5 I found this in very fine print on the labels on the back of the tank) SAID ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT "BREAKING-IN." So I did what some reviewers did and looked for an online manual which can be found at this link:
Bottom line is that breaking-in your compressor is MANDADORY, but it's also a cinch.
Here's the exact wording from the online Porter-Cable manual:
Break-in Procedure
Risk of Unsafe Operation. Serious damage may result if the
following break-in instructions are not closely followed.
This procedure is required before the air compressor is put into service and when
the check valve or a complete compressor pump has been replaced.
1. Make sure the On/Off switch is in the "Off" position.
2. Plug the power cord into the correct branch circuit receptacle. (Refer to Voltage
and Circuit Protection paragraph in the Installation section of this manual.)
3. Open the drain valve (counter-clockwise) fully to permit air to escape and prevent
air pressure build up in the air tank during the break-in period.
MY NOTE: this is sort of counter-intuitive as you want the valve to screw UP
toward the tank giving the appearance of being closed when it's actually open.
You will quickly realize whether you're right or not because you WILL hear the
air blowing out the valve. No blowing air?? Turn the screw the other way.
4. Move the On/Off switch to "On" position. The compressor will start.
5. Run the compressor for 15 minutes. Make sure the drain valve is open and
there is minimal air pressure build-up in tank.
6. After 15 minutes, close the drain valve by turning clockwise. The air receiver
will fill to "cut-out" pressure and the motor will stop.
The compressor is now ready for use.
Bottom line: open the drain valve to prevent pressure from building up.
When you turn on the compressor, it will blow air out the valve.
Run for 15 min. Basically a "dry run." No pressure.
After 15 min, screw the valve the other way to close it and let
pressure build up until it shuts off.
You're all set.
Thanks to all the guys that took the time to warn me ahead of time.
I'm grateful and hope this post will remove the boogieman of breaking-in
your new compressor.
Buy Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit Now
I've used portable work-site compressors of various types for over 30 years; primarily for pneumatic fasteners and framers. The Porter Cable pancake compressor is, by far, the only one that is truly, comfortably portable, without sharp corners, while at the same time having the PSI and air capacity of six gallons to keep an air-thirsty framer working. I'm amused by the occasional complaints here and at other sites of the Porter Cable not having sufficient power for framing nailers, or that the unit kicks in regularly. Regarding the first commentary, my response is that this compressor has ample capacity to keep two framing nailers busy, PROVIDED THAT the user understands the simple physics in volume air handling. The hose ID is, in actual terms, a secondary stage air tank. The 25 foot x 1/4 inch hose supplied with the compressor is a terrific, light-weight hose and suits the machine's portability. For blowing up things around the home, and filling tires or delivering air to a stapler or brad gun, it is perfect. Having said that, ANY professional carpenter knows that a framing nailer, with its large bore and stroke, gobbles a very large volume of air, which must be backed up with volume that exceeds it. Only a 3/8" hose, or greater, will do that. As to the issue of the compressor kicking in regularly, perhaps some understanding of what's involved with this cycling is needed. All compressors have a turn-on/shut-off tank pressure parameter, whereby the tank pressure never rises above its safe working pressure, nor drops below the design minimum operating pressure. Normally, the action of the regulator allows for the pressure to drop to slightly above the hose supply pressure, at which time it kicks in and recharges the tank to full reserve pressure. Depending on the call for air from the user, this regulation may be more or less frequent, but it should always be predictable, if one were to watch the two dial indicators. When short-cycling occurs, it will be accompanied by a failure of the tank pressure to rise to the full rated pressure of the machine. The cause for frequent, or short, cycling is caused by the presence of water in the tank, which interferes with the pressure regulator. As air is compressed, water--present in all atmosphere--is wrung from it, and contaminates the air tank. This water, if not drained regularly, will eventually rust through the air tank in the long term, but in the short term of only a few hours, will get into the regulator valve, cause short cycling, thus preventing the compressor from attaining maximum stored pressure. Draining the tank must be done once every work-day, minimally, but on humid days, may be required every two or three hours, or whenever short-cycling begins to occur. Small portable compressors simply do not have a provision for collection of water, as large commercial compressors may have. As a helpful hint, the only way to correctly and completely drain the tank of water is to do as follows: Shut off compressor. Pull release ring and allow pressure to drop to at least 30 PSI. Open tank drain cock completely. Tilt compressor toward the valve and wait for the water to blow from it. It may take up to a minute to get it to spit its last, but it's extremely vital for the power, proper operation, and life of the machine. Now, about power... A look at the specs are pretty interesting. Porter Cable's design parameter is 120 PSI minimum to 150 PSI maximum. Their minimum is greater than the maximum of most machines in its class, and the maximum is 15 PSI greater than many machines that top-out at 135 PSI! Now, look at the tank capacity... 6 gallons! Again, it's the gallons of air--the volume--that refills the tool. Of course, such a machine is not ever going to maintain continuous air flow to tools that operate by bleeding off copious volumes of air, but then, such machines are not only not portable, they cost many hundreds, into the thousands, more. Finally, I live where oil-lubed air compressors stop working on cold days. A dry compressor such as the Porter Cable is unaffected by cold, and keeps working. I wonder how many people experience problems with their compressor because they didn't break it in, and began working it out of the box. Read the manual. The compressor requires a 15 minute break-in period, with no load, with the drain valve open. That's key. If you don't do it, you'll have a scored cylinder and air by-pass at the piston, and NO POWER. Your father used to ALWAYS break in his new car engine, because he knew that otherwise he'd be buying stock in an oil company. Even though manufacturers of many motors no longer stress this, it remains a fact that piston motors and engines run longer, more smoothly, more economically, and with greater efficiency after break in. Leakage around piston rings with a new motor is almost always caused by failure to break a motor in. Did you break your compressor in? Hmmmm???This compressor is the loudest of the ones I've owned in this class, by far, but such is the price for this power, so I would not recommend running it in your bedroom at night.
Buy this compressor, break it in, get a 3/8" hose, and nail away with confidence and gusto!Was using a one gallon Campbell Haus compressor. It was incredibly loud and didn't hold much air. Using it for filling car and atv tires. Wanted more air capacity and quiter use. This Porter Cable six gallon is far better and quieter too. The extra accessories included with the WK version is less expensive than the standard C2002. Very nice unit and well built. Meets all my needs and runs less often due to the 6 gallon tank. Delivered on time as promised by Amazon. Well done!
Want Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit Discount?
I didn't buy this product through Amazon, but I read the reviews here thoroughly before purchasing at the local big box retailer. When I bought the compressor, in my first use, the "panel" with the pressure gauges and the air connections began to pivot and turn back and forth. I wrote Porter Cable and they said to return to the store, that this was not its intended functionality. I got my money back, and debated what I wanted to do next. The other compressors that I was thinking of were much more expensive. So, I tried to purchase another C2002, this time I happened to do it at big box retailer #2. I had the exact same problem! I tried to connect a hose and the whole panel turned. This is an issue because the way the panel is attached to the compressor is primarily through the air outlet coming up below from the tank. Although it didn't leak right away, I could imagine what would happen over time and I would just end up having problems. I ended up going back and getting the Dewalt D55146, which was much more compressor that I needed, but it is sturdy, pretty quiet, and works well. On the plus side, I will say that the C2002 was pretty quiet, very portable, and looks nice. Also, I was planning to do occasional framing nailing and didn't need a production compressor, and the C2002 could easily handle the type of work I was doing. I was new to compressors before buying this and in researching them learned along the way that what the compressor can push (framing, brad, etc.) is a function of PSI, not CFM. CFM is essentially a measure of how fast the compressor will return to its max pressure. If you are doing rapid-fire work then you would need a higher CFM but if you're not nailing so frequently a lower CFM like this has would do. I did plug in my framing nailer with 3 1/4 inch nails to the C2002 and it handled them fine. Hope this is useful.I was actually looking for one of those 12 volt dc compressors that plugs into the accessories outlet of the car, but my auto mechanic-brother-in-law recommended that I go with a pancake compressor. I'm glad I took his advise. It's great for keeping the tires on our cars properly inflated, blowing the dust out of air filters and tools, and even cleaning the empty mouse nest out the engine of the garden tractor.I was originally worried that it might take up too much space in the garage but it's very compact, light, and highly mobile. Great price, too. No post-purchase regrets.
Update: A year later and it's still working great. this last winter one of my tires developed a slow leak that necessitated adding air every other week. Doing so in the comfort of my garage instead of in the snow at the gas station was great. A month or so later a pot hole bent a rim on my wife's car and the compressor again came to the rescue. I have now acquired the annoying habit of checking the tire pressure on my daughter's and son's car when they visit.
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