Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit

• 150 psi max tank pressure stores more air in the tank for longer tool run times
• 2.6 SCFM at 90 psi allows for quick compressor recovery time, per ISO1217
• Air coupler and plug are factory installed on the air hose to save user labor and to prevent leaks
• 6-gallon pancake-style tank for stability includes water drain valve and rubber feet
• Low-amp 120-volt motor starts easily in cold weather or with an extension cord
• Equipped with a durable oil-free pump for long life and no maintenance
• Shroud, handle, and console cover protect vital components and make unit easier to carry

After reading TONS of reviews on various air compressors, I knew I'd buy the Porter-Cable version. I'm a homeowner and am NOT an expert in power tools. But I do enjoy home improvement projects and want to buy the best tools I can afford and take good care of them.

That being said, I went out and picked this model up today at Lowe's for $159. Exactly as advertised and exactly what I need.

However, there have been some serious reviews from serious users cautioning of the ABSOLUTE NECESSITY of BREAKING-IN your compressor BEFORE USING IT!! Somehow, if you don't break it in properly beforehand, you may be literally wrecking your expensive hardware before you even get to use it.

EXCEPT THAT THE OWNERS MANUAL THAT CAME WITH MY MODEL C2002 (Type 5 I found this in very fine print on the labels on the back of the tank) SAID ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT "BREAKING-IN." So I did what some reviewers did and looked for an online manual which can be found at this link:

Bottom line is that breaking-in your compressor is MANDADORY, but it's also a cinch.

Here's the exact wording from the online Porter-Cable manual:

Break-in Procedure

Risk of Unsafe Operation. Serious damage may result if the

following break-in instructions are not closely followed.

This procedure is required before the air compressor is put into service and when

the check valve or a complete compressor pump has been replaced.

1. Make sure the On/Off switch is in the "Off" position.

2. Plug the power cord into the correct branch circuit receptacle. (Refer to Voltage

and Circuit Protection paragraph in the Installation section of this manual.)

3. Open the drain valve (counter-clockwise) fully to permit air to escape and prevent

air pressure build up in the air tank during the break-in period.

MY NOTE: this is sort of counter-intuitive as you want the valve to screw UP

toward the tank giving the appearance of being closed when it's actually open.

You will quickly realize whether you're right or not because you WILL hear the

air blowing out the valve. No blowing air?? Turn the screw the other way.

4. Move the On/Off switch to "On" position. The compressor will start.

5. Run the compressor for 15 minutes. Make sure the drain valve is open and

there is minimal air pressure build-up in tank.

6. After 15 minutes, close the drain valve by turning clockwise. The air receiver

will fill to "cut-out" pressure and the motor will stop.

The compressor is now ready for use.

Bottom line: open the drain valve to prevent pressure from building up.

When you turn on the compressor, it will blow air out the valve.

Run for 15 min. Basically a "dry run." No pressure.

After 15 min, screw the valve the other way to close it and let

pressure build up until it shuts off.

You're all set.

Thanks to all the guys that took the time to warn me ahead of time.

I'm grateful and hope this post will remove the boogieman of breaking-in

your new compressor.

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I've used portable work-site compressors of various types for over 30 years; primarily for pneumatic fasteners and framers. The Porter Cable pancake compressor is, by far, the only one that is truly, comfortably portable, without sharp corners, while at the same time having the PSI and air capacity of six gallons to keep an air-thirsty framer working. I'm amused by the occasional complaints here and at other sites of the Porter Cable not having sufficient power for framing nailers, or that the unit kicks in regularly. Regarding the first commentary, my response is that this compressor has ample capacity to keep two framing nailers busy, PROVIDED THAT the user understands the simple physics in volume air handling. The hose ID is, in actual terms, a secondary stage air tank. The 25 foot x 1/4 inch hose supplied with the compressor is a terrific, light-weight hose and suits the machine's portability. For blowing up things around the home, and filling tires or delivering air to a stapler or brad gun, it is perfect. Having said that, ANY professional carpenter knows that a framing nailer, with its large bore and stroke, gobbles a very large volume of air, which must be backed up with volume that exceeds it. Only a 3/8" hose, or greater, will do that. As to the issue of the compressor kicking in regularly, perhaps some understanding of what's involved with this cycling is needed. All compressors have a turn-on/shut-off tank pressure parameter, whereby the tank pressure never rises above its safe working pressure, nor drops below the design minimum operating pressure. Normally, the action of the regulator allows for the pressure to drop to slightly above the hose supply pressure, at which time it kicks in and recharges the tank to full reserve pressure. Depending on the call for air from the user, this regulation may be more or less frequent, but it should always be predictable, if one were to watch the two dial indicators. When short-cycling occurs, it will be accompanied by a failure of the tank pressure to rise to the full rated pressure of the machine. The cause for frequent, or short, cycling is caused by the presence of water in the tank, which interferes with the pressure regulator. As air is compressed, water--present in all atmosphere--is wrung from it, and contaminates the air tank. This water, if not drained regularly, will eventually rust through the air tank in the long term, but in the short term of only a few hours, will get into the regulator valve, cause short cycling, thus preventing the compressor from attaining maximum stored pressure. Draining the tank must be done once every work-day, minimally, but on humid days, may be required every two or three hours, or whenever short-cycling begins to occur. Small portable compressors simply do not have a provision for collection of water, as large commercial compressors may have. As a helpful hint, the only way to correctly and completely drain the tank of water is to do as follows: Shut off compressor. Pull release ring and allow pressure to drop to at least 30 PSI. Open tank drain cock completely. Tilt compressor toward the valve and wait for the water to blow from it. It may take up to a minute to get it to spit its last, but it's extremely vital for the power, proper operation, and life of the machine. Now, about power... A look at the specs are pretty interesting. Porter Cable's design parameter is 120 PSI minimum to 150 PSI maximum. Their minimum is greater than the maximum of most machines in its class, and the maximum is 15 PSI greater than many machines that top-out at 135 PSI! Now, look at the tank capacity... 6 gallons! Again, it's the gallons of air--the volume--that refills the tool. Of course, such a machine is not ever going to maintain continuous air flow to tools that operate by bleeding off copious volumes of air, but then, such machines are not only not portable, they cost many hundreds, into the thousands, more. Finally, I live where oil-lubed air compressors stop working on cold days. A dry compressor such as the Porter Cable is unaffected by cold, and keeps working. I wonder how many people experience problems with their compressor because they didn't break it in, and began working it out of the box. Read the manual. The compressor requires a 15 minute break-in period, with no load, with the drain valve open. That's key. If you don't do it, you'll have a scored cylinder and air by-pass at the piston, and NO POWER. Your father used to ALWAYS break in his new car engine, because he knew that otherwise he'd be buying stock in an oil company. Even though manufacturers of many motors no longer stress this, it remains a fact that piston motors and engines run longer, more smoothly, more economically, and with greater efficiency after break in. Leakage around piston rings with a new motor is almost always caused by failure to break a motor in. Did you break your compressor in? Hmmmm???

This compressor is the loudest of the ones I've owned in this class, by far, but such is the price for this power, so I would not recommend running it in your bedroom at night.

Buy this compressor, break it in, get a 3/8" hose, and nail away with confidence and gusto!

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Was using a one gallon Campbell Haus compressor. It was incredibly loud and didn't hold much air. Using it for filling car and atv tires. Wanted more air capacity and quiter use. This Porter Cable six gallon is far better and quieter too. The extra accessories included with the WK version is less expensive than the standard C2002. Very nice unit and well built. Meets all my needs and runs less often due to the 6 gallon tank. Delivered on time as promised by Amazon. Well done!

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I didn't buy this product through Amazon, but I read the reviews here thoroughly before purchasing at the local big box retailer. When I bought the compressor, in my first use, the "panel" with the pressure gauges and the air connections began to pivot and turn back and forth. I wrote Porter Cable and they said to return to the store, that this was not its intended functionality. I got my money back, and debated what I wanted to do next. The other compressors that I was thinking of were much more expensive. So, I tried to purchase another C2002, this time I happened to do it at big box retailer #2. I had the exact same problem! I tried to connect a hose and the whole panel turned. This is an issue because the way the panel is attached to the compressor is primarily through the air outlet coming up below from the tank. Although it didn't leak right away, I could imagine what would happen over time and I would just end up having problems. I ended up going back and getting the Dewalt D55146, which was much more compressor that I needed, but it is sturdy, pretty quiet, and works well. On the plus side, I will say that the C2002 was pretty quiet, very portable, and looks nice. Also, I was planning to do occasional framing nailing and didn't need a production compressor, and the C2002 could easily handle the type of work I was doing. I was new to compressors before buying this and in researching them learned along the way that what the compressor can push (framing, brad, etc.) is a function of PSI, not CFM. CFM is essentially a measure of how fast the compressor will return to its max pressure. If you are doing rapid-fire work then you would need a higher CFM but if you're not nailing so frequently a lower CFM like this has would do. I did plug in my framing nailer with 3 1/4 inch nails to the C2002 and it handled them fine. Hope this is useful.

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I was actually looking for one of those 12 volt dc compressors that plugs into the accessories outlet of the car, but my auto mechanic-brother-in-law recommended that I go with a pancake compressor. I'm glad I took his advise. It's great for keeping the tires on our cars properly inflated, blowing the dust out of air filters and tools, and even cleaning the empty mouse nest out the engine of the garden tractor.

I was originally worried that it might take up too much space in the garage but it's very compact, light, and highly mobile. Great price, too. No post-purchase regrets.

Update: A year later and it's still working great. this last winter one of my tires developed a slow leak that necessitated adding air every other week. Doing so in the comfort of my garage instead of in the snow at the gas station was great. A month or so later a pot hole bent a rim on my wife's car and the compressor again came to the rescue. I have now acquired the annoying habit of checking the tire pressure on my daughter's and son's car when they visit.

IIT 10040 18-Piece Pneumatic Air Compressor Accessory Kit

• Complete set of air accessories - essential for every professional and DIY workshop
• Includes brass quick-connect coupler, female & male-threaded connectors & adapter
• 6" dual-head tire chuck, tire pressure gauge, inflating tips for sports balls & water toys
• Blow gun with over-sized squeeze trigger, rubber tip, cleaning brush & specialty tips
• Valve stem tool with valve remover, stem adapters and replacement valves

I bought this product. The moment i hooked it up, i could tell something was wrong. The tools included with mine leaked air constantly. It caused the compressor to keep running and the tool attached to keep working (when you didnt want it to). This wass especially problematic when i had it attached to a paint sprayer. It caused it to keep spraying when i released the handle.

Let's just say, one of the reasons I love amazon is because they have a great return policy.

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BUEN PRODUCTO TAL COMO LA DESCRIPCION ENTREGA MUY RAPIDA POR MEDIO DE LA EMPRESA MUY RESPONSABLE EN EL EMBALAJE 100% RECOMENDADOS

Jet 708118 JMB-UMB Universal Mobile Base

• Sturdy and strong mobile base suitable for industrial grade use
• Adjusts from 18-by-18-to-28-by-28-inches
• 2 fixed and two swivel locking casters
• Easy assembly
• 600-pound capacity

I recently decided to put four of my tools on mobile bases. Because of the different sizes of the tools, I ended up buying two from Jet (Jet 708118 JMB-UMB Universal Mobile Base) and two from HTC (HTC2000 Universal Mobile Base). Since all four showed up at the same time, I was in a position to make a head-to-head comparison of them, and decided to write about it. As a result, you'll find this same review under both the Jet and the HTC Universal Base listings.

Upon Arrival:

All four bases were purchased from Amazon with free shipping, and all four arrived within just a couple of days via UPS. The HTC base pieces were wrapped in bubble wrap inside a cardboard outer box, and the Jet bases were in Styrofoam cutouts inside a cardboard outer box, so nothing sustained any shipping damage.

The next day, before I even unpacked anything, UPS showed up again with a bag. Inside were two pieces of thick, perforated steel about 18" long no note, no explanation, no return address, nothing. It turns out that one of the Jet bases was missing these two pieces. Someone I assume at Amazon caught it and rectified it, literally before I knew they were missing. When I examined everything closer, it was obvious that this particular base had been purchased by someone else and returned to Amazon, then resold. Not a big deal, but I think that explains the missing/found parts.

Unpacking:

I opened up and unpacked one HTC and one Jet base at the same time, to compare parts, instructions, and tool requirements before starting.

The HTC instructions were a 20-page stapled booklet in three languages. This is a particular pet peeve of mine, since I feel that if a company is going to sell to a particular country, then the instructions should be in that country's language. Again, not a big deal, just a minor irritant.

The HTC parts list showed a total of 108 parts, including nuts and bolts. I carefully compared the list to the actual contents, and found that several of the listed nuts and bolts were not there, with others apparently substituted. More on that later. The instructions listed the tools needed as a 7/16", 1/2" and 9/16" wrench, 7/16" socket, tape measure, and pliers. More on that later as well.

The Jet instructions are a single sheet, in English only. One side has the assembly instructions, the other side has a complete parts breakdown. Most of the Jet base is preassembled, so the parts list only has 8 items on it. No tools are listed because none are required for assembly.

Assembly of the HTC Base:

The HTC base requires a lot more assembly, so I decided to start with that one while my patience level was higher. The instructions are not great, but they're not the worst I've ever encountered. This is one instance where it really pays to read and pay attention to them.

The instructions show a couple of different configurations for how to mount the casters. This is a nice feature, allowing you a little more flexibility in how the base will move after assembly.

I read through everything, measured the base as instructed (the drill press was the first tool to be mounted), and bolted everything together. The base size can be adjusted in 1" increments. Since the nuts and bolts included with the kit don't match up to what's in the instruction sheet, there's a little head scratching involved to figure out what goes where, but it wasn't too bad. Also, the substituted hardware doesn't match up with the sizes of the listed tools, including some nuts that are metric. An adjustable wrench solved that problem. All the hardware is of good quality no problems with snapped bolts.

The drill press is too heavy to lift straight up and onto the base, but the instructions suggest that you can put your tool up on blocks and build the stand around it. I tried that and it didn't work, I think primarily because a drill press has such a small base in relation to its height, and ended up being dangerously unstable. Instead, I laid it on its side, then tipped it up onto the base. Not ideal, but it worked. I will say, however, that with both the HTC and the Jet base, if you can get some help to lift the tools straight onto the base, you're far better off.

All in all including my aborted attempt at assembling the base around the tool and then having to take it apart again the assembly took about 2 hours. This is probably not the greatest kit for someone who's a novice at assembling things, or for someone who won't read instructions.

Assembly of the Jet Base:

The Jet base has two front and two rear corners with the casters already installed. Unfortunately, you don't have the same flexibility of caster placement that you do with the HTC. There are also four side rails that slip into the corner pieces, and are held in place by spring-loaded pins that snap into the holes in the side rails. Adjustment is done in 1" increments. Assembly took just a couple of minutes, with no nuts and bolts and no tools.

The first tool on a Jet base was the sander. Again I couldn't lift it straight up and on, but I "walked" in onto the base with no problems.

Operation:

The HTC has two fixed rear wheels that don't lock. The two front casters swivel, and lock via two bright orange, high-impact plastic levers that you step on. The levers are large and mounted on top of the wheels, so they are very easy to see and step on. With the wheels down, the base moves very easily and the tool feels stable, although it takes a little effort to pivot the wheels into their down position.

The Jet has two fixed rear wheels with locks, and two front swivel casters with locks. The rear wheel locks are pretty easy to reach and operate, but the front ones are on the sides of the casters and partially hidden, which I found made them difficult to see and even more difficult to step on. When the wheels are unlocked, the base moves very easily and the tool feels very stable in motion.

Stability:

You obviously spend a lot more time with the tool locked in the operating position then you do moving it around, so this to me is the most important criteria.

With the HTC, when the tool is in the down position it rests on two rear wheels and two adjustable front leveling feet. The Jet stand is always resting on the four wheels. As a result, the Jet base moves more, even when locked. The HTC leveling feet also allow you to adjust the base to conform to an uneven floor, something you can't do with the Jet.

But the biggest difference between the two is how the pieces fit and lock together. Because the Jet base relies on side rails that slide into the corners and lock with a single pin, there is a lot of movement between the pieces. The design makes it impossible to tighten any of the pieces to one another short of drilling the corner pieces and installing bolts and as a result there is too much flex and movement in the Jet base.

The HTC on the other hand, because of all those irritating bolts and nuts you have to install, is actually more rigid. I found a lot less flex in the HTC base, and when combined with the fixed leveling feet, I found the HTC base to be a lot more stable in the down and locked position then the Jet.

What Went Where:

Sander: The sander went onto a Jet base, and it fits the open stand very nicely. The tool rocks slightly in the down position, but it's a pretty heavy tool, so that seems to add some stability. The wheel locks are hard to reach and operate, but I rarely move this tool, so that's not a big deal. This one remains on the Jet stand.

Drill press: The drill press went onto one of the HTC bases, but in the end I found that I didn't like having my drill press on a mobile base. It's so top heavy that no matter what I did, it still didn't feel very stable. I ended up taking it off the mobile base altogether.

Router table: This went onto the HTC base as originally intended. It moves very nicely when necessary, and locks down nice and stable the rest of the time. I'm very happy with this setup.

Bandsaw: Initially, the bandsaw went onto a Jet base. But as I mentioned above, there was too much flex in the base for the saw to feel very stable. This is also a tool that gets moved more often, and the Jet caster locks were too much of a pain. I ended up taking this off the Jet base and putting it on the HTC that had originally been used for the drill press, and again I am very happy with it in both the rolling and locked positions. The second Jet base was returned to the store.

The Bottom Line:

Despite the Jet having a clear advantage in how easy it is to assemble, I would definitely recommend the HTC over the Jet. You have more flexibility in the location of the front casters, the caster locks are easier to operate, there is less flex in the frame, and the machines sit down with more stability in the locked position.

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This base is awsome. I moved my table saw to this from a delta base and couldn't be happier. The assembly took a total of about 5 minutes since there is no hardware to worry about. As to the people that saw this doesn't lock well enough for a table saw, turn the base 90 degrees. No mobile base should be set to roll in the outfeed direction of a TS. If you lock the back (fixed) casters, then the front casters can't turn so it becomes very solid.

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After reading reviews of the HTC 2000, and knowing about the Delta UMB from personal experience, I decided to give the Jet a shot. I am glad that I did. Before getting to the review, though, five stars to Amazon's shipping department which shipped this product within a couple of hours of the time I placed the order. It hasn't arrived yet, but I bought a second one from my local tool shop. (OK, I'm weak. I couldn't wait.)

This mobile base was very simple to set up. The spring-loaded pins locked firmly in place, and I was able to perfectly size the base to the cabinet of the 8" jointer that now rests on it. To ensure stability, I cut a sub-base from 3/4" ply, placed that on/in the base, and then placed the jointer on top of that. I then bolted the two side tabs on the jointer cabinet to the ply.

With the wheels running opposite the length of the bed, the jointer does not move at all when being used. When it does get moved, though, it is very smooth and confident. I can't give five stars those wheel locks are an unfortunate wart on an otherwise excellent accessory.

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I bought this base for a Craftsman 10" hybrid cabinet table saw (weight approx. 430 lbs). This base was extremely easy to assemble -took only a couple of minutes and no tools needed for assembly. Very solid and moves smoothly. I can move my table saw around without any difficulty whatsover. The base was very easy to adjust to the dimensions to my table saw. Two of the wheels lock with a foot lever. On smooth flooring it will still move slightly with effort, but wheeling it onto a rubber mat eliminates that. Overall, I am very happy with this purchase and would happily buy another one (which I will probably do when I buy a jointer/planer).

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I recently purchased 2 mobile bases 1 HTC for my Jet 17" Drill Press and 1 Jet Universal Mobile base for my 10" Jet Table Saw. For the HTC It took 40 minutes, 4 or 5 different size wrenches/sockets,attaching the castors, hammering the ill fitted roller flanges (which I think will still slip), sorting out if the spring bumps go up or down and installing the PLASTIC levers.

With the Jet, In 5 minutes with no tools and no castor subassembly, with metal levers my table saw was up and rolling.

Makita MAC700 Big Bore 2.0 HP Air Compressor

• Cast iron pump with big bore cylinder and piston, combined with greater bore and stroke, delivers maximum performance
• Substantially lower noise levels with a large 1,720 RPM pump, enabling greater displacement at lower RPM
• Low amp draw reduces incidences of tripped breakers and voltage drop that can cause premature motor failure
• Oil lubricated provides cooler running pump, minimizes wear
• One-year manufacturer's warranty

I just received the compressor and it's the first one that I've owned. The shroud was cracked upon receipt, but I don't think it's worth the trouble to have that piece replaced.

Now that I've gotten everything figured out, I think it'll work fine, but the manual is a complete disaster. Some important setup instructions are completely omitted and others are so obtuse as to be worthless. If you don't know your way around compressors, the following steps that I took may prove useful:

1. Remove the plastic plug on the back of the compressor and pour in the included oil until the level is about half way up the little transparent indicator window.

2. Replace the disposable oil plug with the long black plastic one that they include (not in the instructions -the piece is item number 36 on the parts diagram)

3. Remove the other disposable plastic plug from the side of the compressor (high up and toward the back of the shroud. This is where you need to install the air filter (also not in the instructions.) The air filter assembly is item number 35 on the parts diagram -it's the other spare part included that's chrome and about the size of a hockey puck with a wing nut holding it together.

4. You'll screw in the air filter assembly where you removed that plastic plug, but I'd suggest that you use some teflon tape on the threads to make a good seal.

5. The instructions mention that you're to open the air receiver's drain valve for initial start up. Nowhere in any diagram is any part labeled as such, but I'm pretty sure it's item number 47, a valve on the side of the compressor very near the bottom.

Hopefully this'll save someone some time!

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I have had this compressor for a couple of weeks now and really like it. It is a high quality unit clearly built to last. I chose this model over the very popular oil-free pancake compressors mainly for it's compact size and low noise level....and it did not dissappoint me. I would say this unit is half as loud as those typical oil-fee models by P*rter C*ble. I can easly run it indoors while remodeling a bedroom, and hardly hear in the room next door.

The unit is compact, but much heavier duty than similar Cr*ftman compressors I saw at Sears. It recycles quickly and fills the tank in less than 20 seconds. It came with a good owner's manual and a bottle of oil. I did have a problem where the plastic oil filler cap was cracked, but Makita quickly sent me a replacement part under warantee. I would recommend this unit to anyone looking for an occasional use compressor and does not want something large or loud.

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I purchased this unit to replace an oil-less pancake compressor that burned out. The Makita MAC700 is super! It has all the attributes of a large high quality oil-lube compressor. I am very pleased to report that the unit is as quiet as advertised. By comparison, the pancake compressor this unit replaced was DREADFULLY loud. I am impressed with the powerful low-rpm motor and the heavy duty oil-lube design. In my opinion, the longevity and quietness that an oil-lube compressor offers, far outweighs the time and slight inconvenience of routine maintenance. At this time, I cannot suggest any improvements to this machine. I love it! If you are looking for a light duty air compressor, I highly recommend the MAC700 Hot Dog Air Compressor. It's great for finish nailers, car and bicycle tires, and kids' toys. A great addition to any home garage!

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After working with a friend's older version of this compressor for the last eight months, I decided to splurge and get my own. If this compressor is anything like the older model, it's going to last forever. We left the older model out, under a saw table, in rain, snow, 100 degree heat you name it. Never had any problems with it.

I've only had this one for 2 days, so I can't speak much about it other than to say it's quiet enough to use and talk at the same time, and it feels very well built. It's also heavier than I expected, but the carrying handle makes moving it around easy on the back.

One thing I had read the other reviews that mentioned shipping damage and hoped for the best. When it arrived, I checked the box, and there was only one small ding in a corner. What I should have done was kept the FedEx driver there until I actually got it out of the box. It looks like someone must've dropped it, and from a pretty good height! One of the legs was bent about 2 inches, so the compressor would rock when set down. Fortunately, the compressor itself (external tubes and gauges and whatnot) are all fine.

I fired it up and it ran fine, so I decided to keep it. I'll try to hammer out the bent leg at some point. It's annoying, but I don't want to go through the exchange process and be without air for another two weeks.

The startup process is fairly simple. The manual doesn't explain what goes where when you open the box, but it's reasonably self-evident. There are two plastic plugs on the compressor that need to come out. One covers the oil filler, and one covers the air intake port. You replace the plug on the air intake port (topmost plug) with the included air filter, and you replace the oil filler plug with the included oil cap. There's a window into the oil reservoir so you can see how much oil is in it. Before you run it for the first time, fill it (with the included oil) until the oil line is midway in the window. Then, open the air release valve at the very bottom of the air tank and run the compressor for 20 minutes. After that, you should be good to go. Check the oil level periodically, of course!

On a related note, I also bought the Campbell Hausfeld MP520010AV air tool accessory kit to get me started. For the price, I'm happy with that too.

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Makita has put a full size, quiet, oil-lubed motor on a small, lighter weight tank; about 20lbs lighter than the 4 gallon tanks. This makes it great for carrying up stairs and around the job site. The smaller size means it can fit through studs or sit in the footwell of your vehicle. I have used mine for finish work, roofing and framing. Of course, with the smaller tank (2.6 gal) it kicks on more often to recharge, but it is quieter than most. It is tall and narrow, so it tips easy in the bed of a pickup. This is not good for transporting, so be sure to pack things around it. When mine arrived, the box said "factory reconditioned". With two emails back and forth to amazon customer service, a brand new one was sent out and the reconditioned one was picked up.

Goodyear i3500 12-Volt Tire Inflator with Removable Light

• High pressure 12 Volt portable inflator
• Inflates 14 inch vehicle tire from 0-28lbs of pressure in under 6 minutes
• Designed to inflate vehicle, ATV, motorcycle and other tires
• Includes removable work light that runs directly off 12 Volt outlet power or runs off AAA batteries when removed from unit
• Highly visible built in pressure gauge for easy PSI readings

Pros:

1. The light can be carried around like a flashlight if batteries are inserted.

2. Fills up air fast. Comparable to even high-end air inflators.

3. Makes noise, but not that noisy.

Cons:

1. When you turn on the air inflator, it does not turn on any light. Description needs to be fixed.

2. The 12-volt cable is long enough for a regular car. Certainly wouldn't do for a truck.

3. The air plug is hard to pull out after inflating. Be sure to overpump cause you will lose a few PSI of air before you can can get that plug off.

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Works well but bit slower than I expected takes about 4-5 minutes to go from ~30 to ~34 psi on P245/65R17. Probably is nothing to be disappointed about based on its intended design and performance specification. Not sure if it would be any faster for smaller size tires. No problem in reaching all tires of a mid-size SUV and a minivan. Conceivably, the cord doesn't seem to be long enough to reach all tires of any full size SUV's and trucks unless there is an additional socket in the back somewhere. The cord slot could have been little bigger for easier storage and less hassle in having to winding the cord perfectly.

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This product is very convient but it is slow. It does everything that it is supposed to but it takes at least 15 min to inflate a size 16 tire. It is good to keep around for emergency but not for frequent use.