Typhoon Blow Gun 1/4" NPT W/High Flow Tip

• Sold Individually

These blow guns provide us with a safe and proper air flow in order to dry as well as clean off or beautiful vehicles. We use these in our reconditioning shop for the aiding of the drying process to all our hand washed Porsche, Bentley and other speciality vehicles. We have 20 people in separate locations all having to do with presenting of our cars in a fashion fitting, to the line of vehicles we offer here.

We are very happy with this product and will continue to purchase these units.

Roger Perron

Facility Manager

Inskip of Warwick

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I do like the ergonomics and the fact that it keeps my hands away from the chilling air stream. Looking to add some tips.

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I was skeptical about the advertised high air pressure from this tool, expecting that the OSHA approval would require a reduction in airflow to reduce decibels. But it lives up to its claims and then some. Unlike most air nozzles which direct air out of a single opening, this gun has a cone-shaped aluminum tip which is ringed with about 50 or 60 small openings that direct the air over the cone. The result is a very focused stream of a LARGE volume of air. Very powerful flow. Well-built, lightweight, with a smooth-action trigger. Liked it so much I bought 6 more for our production crew, and they love them. You can find cheaper guns, but this one's worth the extra cost.

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After seeing that this gun is recommended for A/C system repairs by many, I purchased it. I didn't expect it to be much more than a minor upgrade to my existing blow guns, after all, I have four others, and they're all more or less the same. This gun blows them out of the water. We can blow shop rags 3/4 of the way across the 2910 square foot shop floor with it. It's hurt productivity in the shop for the last week, because we find ourselves playing with it. If you need a blow gun, by all means get this one....

I did assume it would be all metal from the photos, but the trigger is plastic. I'm sure I'll break it eventually, but I'm still going to highly recommend this product.

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This a great tool worth its wieght in gold. Good price I would recommend Acne to anyone.

Tool works as advertised. Thanks guys.

Legacy Manufacturing L8335 Levelwind Retractable Air Or Water Hose Reel with 1/2" ID x 50' Hose

• Adjustable hose stopper
• Seven position locking bracket
• Latching mode switch
• Free standing base
• Maximum working pressure: 300 pounds per square inch

This auto reeler works great. My wife always complained about how heavy the hose was to drag around the yard. I found this online and thought we would give it a try. It is great. It keeps the hose off the yard and neatly wound on the reel. My only compaint would be that it takes a little effort to pull the hose out of the reel. It goes back in great; maybe that's why it takes a little extra pulling to pull it out!! For us it has been well worth the money spent.

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Nice unit. Have had one for 5 years now, still works fine.

I like the part of the reel that moves the hose back and forth horizontally to retract better.

I bought a few more for our detail shop. They like them. no more hoses laying on the floor.

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I have two of these units the ½ and the 3/8. The 3/8 works fine. This unit has given me problems from the start. The issue is that the hose has difficulty rolling back into the unit. The guide is no help. This is especially true when the unit is cool, but is an issue even when warm. The result is that it is very difficult to get the hose to roll completely into the reel. I expected more from a unit that cost this much.

Jump-N-Carry JNC300XL 900 Peak Amp Ultraportable 12-Volt Jump Starter with Light

• 900 peak amps and 225 cranking amp, with 27 inches of #4 gauge jumper cables
• Full size clamps to penetrate battery corrosion
• Equips with a high intensity work light
• Note: This item is Hazmat and non-returnable
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

We purchased the JNC300XL about a year ago to power a camera system we were developing for a truck. We needed 12Vdc vehicle power while in the lab and in the field for testing off the vehicle. It charges quickly, holds a charge for months and is light and compact. Last summer my wife called to say she was first in a left turn lane on a busy expressway and her car stalled and would not start. I grabbed to JNC300XL where it had set for months without a charge and off I went. I connected it to her battery and it provided plenty of power to turn over her fair sized V6 engine and start the car. The nice thing is it was a quick hook up. I wasn't in the middle of a busy road trying to get my car close enough to her car to string a couple of jumper cables. It is great for powering gadgets that normally plug into a cigarette lighter for power. You unplug the "flashlight" on the front of the unit to access the cigarette lighter plug. As with all batteries it should be charged every several months to keep the batteries from becoming un-chargeable. Since it is a sealed spill proof lead-acid battery like a car battery it does not have a memory nor will it be damaged by being topped off once in a while. It will die if left discharged for a long period. The manual can be found at

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I already had a JNC 660 for my truck and wanted to put smaller units in each of our cars. I bought 3 of these, then 2 more for Christmas gifts. They are easy to use and much more dependable than the cheap imports with lots of whistles and bells.... I prefer the larger unit for my dodge 1500 with a V-8 (I've jumped it 5 or 6 times between charges without a problem... electrical trouble...) This smaller unit is great for our Toyota 4 cylinder cars and Chrysler Concorde with a 3.5 6 cylinder. These beat the heck out of jumper cables, and my daughter and wife don't have to ask strangers for help... or wait for AAA.

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Changing my 1-star review to 3-stars. I purchased this unit but it wouldn't start my 1997 Land Rover Discovery V8 -at least not by following the standard directions. I spent over an hour with it over two days trying to start the car but it simply wouldn't turn over. This said, I was able to start the car using jumper cables connected to another vehicle, and AAA was able to start the V8 with a similar but larger portable unit. I finally called Clore Automotive Technical Support at (800) 328-2921. First off, they were super nice. They suggested that the JNC300XL may or may not work with a V8 truck, that a larger unit might be required, especially if the truck battery were completely dead. AAA had been out several days earlier, tested the Land Rover battery, so I knew it was OK, it was just low.

The Clore technician asked how I was connecting the unit. I said I followed the instructions, connecting the red lead to the red battery terminal and connecting the black lead to a non-moving metal engine part. He said, "There's your problem. You should connect both cables directly to the battery. They tell you not to do this in the directions, to avoid sparks, but it's what you need to do." I tried it and the Land Rover started instantly. So, it works and looks like this unit can save me in a pinch. I will keep it in my car from now on. I only wish the instructions included this extra bit of information, or what to do if the car fails to start following the standard instructions. If you have any issues, I'd recommend calling Clore Support.

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GREAT PRODUCT! for the price.

I spent 2-3 hours on-line looking for what I needed. A Battery Jumper: 1) not too much money, 2)would help me start my car immediately...This accomplished both needs. This is the cheapest, most reliant item. Ignore the Black&Decker item. I read too many bad reviews.

I used this one 5 times (within 2 months) before I took my car into the shop to correct the REAL problem ---My real problem: I bought a cheap replacement battery.

This item saved me from having my Auto Club telling me, "SORRY, YOU HAVE CALLED US TOO MANY TIMES".

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I wish all cars had auto shut-off feature so that it turns off the headlights and all electronics (except for door lock), so that if you forget to turn these off and remove the key, it wouldn't be sucking power off of your car's battery. My Mercedes would turn off the headlights and all electronics but my Honda would not. Having been spoiled by the Mercedes, I often forget to turn off the headlights and interior lights on my Honda, resulting in a dead battery.

Since I bought this jump starter, fortunately I didn't have to use it because I never ran into a situation. But just yesterday, I had someone walk up to me as I was proceeding to get into my car, asking if I had a jumper cable. I told him I had more than just a jumper cable and handed him this jump starter. Five minutes later, the guy came back very happy and told me that it worked on the first attempt.

Even though I had charged it almost 3 months ago, it worked on the first attempt which is reassuring. I didn't want to write a review of this product until I had tested it and now I am doing it because I do think this is a great product and can save you a lot of hassle. Please make sure to take it out to fully charge it every 3-4 months so you don't end up with a dead battery AND a dead starter.

***Update 09/04/2011***

Just to give you update, I have been using this product for more than a year now. I only had to charge it once. Its internal battery is just amazing if you're only using this for a quick jump-start every once in a while. I have used it at least more than a dozen times and it has always worked flawlessly. I last charged it several months ago and it still shows that the internal battery has enough juice to go on (two green LEDs).

Even after using it for more than a year, I am still raving about it. This purchase was well worth it and it has saved me a lot of time since I bought it.

Desiccant Snake DS20 DEV-130502

• DS20 Desiccant Snake

The DeVilbiss Desiccant Snake DS20 DEV-130502 works very well. When I do automotive paint work I need dry compressed air to do a quality job. The Desiccant Snake really does give me peace of mind that I am doing what is needed to ensure a good paint job result.

It is very easy to install and works better than the water separators I have used in the past.

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Does exactly what is says: keeps moisture out of your line!! and works better than them moisture traps!! good investment! thanks.

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I build furniture, and recently I was having trouble with water in the line clouding up the lacquer finishes I sprayed. I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a desiccant air dryer, so I purchased one of these and it works like a charm. I've also used it to paint cars and it worked without a hitch. If you're looking for a temporary fix to that menacing moisture that'll ruin a good finish, look no further.

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This hose is perfect for the guy who worries about water or oil in their air lines. Bought one and put it on right after my new QC3 3-Stage Air Filter/Dryer Unit. Both together work perfect, and my fish eye issue is gone! My compressor is only 3 years old, but I apparently had a little oil residue coming through my lines. This helped to take care of any issues. My paint work now is free of contaminants. A+

Porter-Cable CPLMC7580V2C 30 Amp 7.5 Horsepower 80 Gallon Oiled Vertical Compressor

• 175 psi - 195 gal equivalent tank size as compared to conventional 125 psi model
• 80 gal air tank supports heavy duty, continuous multi-tool usage
• 240-volt capacitor start induction motor with manual thermal overload protection
• Two stage, oil lubricated pump designed with stainless steel valves, cast iron cylinder body and sleeves for long and dependable service life
• Aluminum crankcase and head for cooler operating temperatures Pump contains automotive style pistons, rings, and connecting rod

This compressor seems to be a good choice. I work with stained glass and this compressor meets the needs for working with glass. Glass needs a lot of air and continuous air. This compressor meets all of my other work needs also...... power tools, air guns and just about any other tool you can think of. We started out with a 60 gallon, but decided to go to 80 gallon. That was the icing on the cake. No problems, excypt it's not very mobil. It's great where it's at.

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I took delivery of my new Porter-Cable compressor only 7 days after ordering it. And free shipping too! Amazon did a great job getting it to me quick.

This compressor suits my needs to a Tee. Although I use it in my garage, it is a commercial rated compressor. I rate it 5-Stars. It looks great also. The massive motor and compressor actually runs much quieter than the 3.5hp oil-less I replaced. I decided on this model because I wanted the air volume to run any tool I have, without the fear of it being under powered. I can run my DA Sander continuously and when the compressor kicks on at 145psi, it fills back up in just a minute, even while I continue with my DA.

This Porter-Cable compressor in my garage was long over due. After owning it now for several months, I can honestly say, it suits all of my compressor needs. It operates great and supplies plenty of air power to run any of my air tools.

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This is an excellent compressor. I was a little iffy as most are buying a name brand like Porter Cable which isn't known with a history of air compressors but i'm glad to see all my doubts dissapear. I had an ingersol rand vertical upright compressor before so this is not my first rodeo. This Porter Cable easily smokes the Ingersol Rand both in power and in price.

PURCHASE:

Anyone who's done a little foot work on the internet and in local stores will see that this compressor delivers more bang for the buck then virtually any other compressor on the market right now. The 175PSI @ 25SCFM really is as powerful as they say it is. Do not use the compressor without a regulator, that would be highly dangerous, for any compressor but especially this one. I also bought from amazon because I read a review here and it said free shipping and free lift gate service. Well that was not the case. The only thing Amazon shipped me free was my bucks even on nearly a $2000.00 order. *grumble grumble* Maybe it has something to do with location? (Although I do live in lower contiguous 48 states. After my purchase it was shipped from grizzly so really I don't know what the difference between buying it here or at grizzly would be since you have to pay freight and lift gate both ways. And yes you do need the lift gate. This thing comes in a mammoth size box on a fairly good size pallette and it is top heavy. Not something you'd want to ramp unless you had a team of friends helping you. When it got here I found it to be packaged quite well although they only used stiff cardboard around the unit not wood. This may be why some complain about shipping damage. I had virtually no shipping damage. Part of the wire mesh fan housing was slightly bent, but easily bent back into shape. Overall a great purchase. You can't beat this compressors quality and capability in this price range. An ingersol rand or chicago pneumatic will cost you twice as much for the same specs and still be the same quality as this machine.

SETUP:

The first thing everyone asks is do they have to bolt it down and can they plug it into a dryer outlet. The answer is yes to both with some caveats. First you may void your warranty if you ever tell someone or show someone it's not bolted down or that you haven't hard wired it. But first lets just talk about mounting it. If this is a permanent installation by all means bolt it to the concrete but in doing so get yourself some good bolt-through shock/vibration machine mounts. You can get these through companies like MSC Industrial, JL Industrial, Grizzly Tool, Lord Vibration Isolators and Farrat.com but machine mounts are not cheap (15$-25$ usually a piece) but if your bolting it down get the right thing and have a sales person help you.

With that said, the machine has very little vibration and most people, myself included, will testify that this machine is not as loud as most people will think it is. It also stores so much air that unless your sandblasting your prolly not going to have it continuously running. Thus I decided to build a non-bolted down base for the compressor. I did this with my ingersol vertical compressor and never had a problem with it either. I took 4 boards, 2 of which were 2x6's the others to be under them were 2x8's and used PL and screws to join them lincoln log style. I did it in such a way that I can reach my arm easily into the bottom of the tank to unscrew that drip valve when needed. Once I had these boards setup I shimmied the compressor on there to mark the drill holes. Why they used such giant bolt holes on the compressor is beyond me. I ended up using a metric fastener to give perfect nearly zero clearance in those holes. Of course this means big bolts. Once the holes were drilled I painted the thing black and then I attached 4"x4" by 3/4" thick vibration pads to the bottom with exterior mounting tape (it has a red backing). The ones I prefer are cheap at 10$ a piece from KELLETT Enterprises, Inc http://www.kellettent.com/vibration.html From here I actually put some thin rubber under the feet of the compressor and bolted the compressor down. Use washers top and bottom. I also used a rubber washer under my top washer so that the compressor foot wasn't metal to metal with my bolt. Little things like this do help with dampening. With the whole thing on a nice base with the antivibration pads from Kellett I would bet that my compressor is dampened more then any compressor bolted to the concrete in virtually any shop. Here are some pics

(you'll have to copy / paste them into your browser as amazon doesn't let you do html)

http://home.comcast.net/~theonyxabyss/aa/compressor/compressorsmall.jpg

(Above: Yah I took off the cheezy stickers hehe You might want to zip tie the wire that goes right next to the globe valve to the other black wire/motor wire to keep it away from the globe valve like I did)

http://home.comcast.net/~theonyxabyss/aa/compressor/5443.jpg

(Above: you can see the foot resting on a thin piece of rubber and it's bolted down with correct size hex bolt which also has washer and rubber washer. Don't forget to use a washer underneath or your bolt will just pull into the wood when tightening, especially if its soft lumber)

http://home.comcast.net/~theonyxabyss/aa/compressor/5444.jpg

(Above: Here you can see the stand I made with Kellett pads underneath it. These pads are great. Some prefer the cork 4x4x1" from places like MSC but i've never tried them and these pads are for supporting heavy duty compressors as well as thousand pound industrial washing machines so you can be sure they are the right thing for the job. A washing machine has way more vibration then a compressor.)

WIRING:

Now that you have your compressor either bolted down or mounted onto an antivibration setup you'll probably want to wire up the electrical. It is a three wire setup to the gray electrical box on the front. So the 220Volt 30Amp is comprised of 2 hots and one ground. If you are hardwiring this unit in you will want to buy dual-pull 30 amp breakers (I suggest slim-line as they only take up one slot). If your unsure about electrical get an electrician to help you hard wire in it. If you do not wish to hardwire it in you can actually run this compressor off a dryer cord that is for 220V 30Amps and has three wires. About the tricky party is stuffing the three wires through the electrical connector on the side of the box. I used some silocne spray to get the dryer cord through there as it was a little stiff. The two red wires at the top of the fused area are is the hot area and this is where you'll connect your two hot wires to. The ground you'll connect to where the two green wires are already bolted down to.

Once you have that wired in safe and securley you'll be able to run the compressor. If you have one of those newer dryer plugs with the four poles you'll have to ask about wiring up a three wire compressor to it. Google it as i've heard that come up a lot. Also if someone tells you that a plug increases resistence they are wrong, that kind of resistence is very minimal when compared to the resistence you get from running long distances with 220 line. Your dryer is "plugged" into the wall the same way and so is my welder. No heat even remotely noticable in the 220 line, the outlet, nor the dryer cord when I ran the compressor for 25 mins straight so I can tell you this is a safe way to wire the unit and it is fully grounded. One caveat, if you use a cord make sure to use the shortest cord possible on the compressor 6' is best.. 8' i'd say should be your maximum. With electrical hardwired runs you always want to go for the shortest run possible to decrease resistence. If your close to the breaker box (under 50') it's not even worth mentioning, you'll be fine.

RUNNING IT:

It runs quieter then most expect but its still a vertical compressor. The tank fills fast and make sure you do the 20 minute run in test in the manual. Also make sure you get a torque wrench or borrow one and calibrate those head bolts as the manual says after 5 hours of running. During the break in procedure I realized there was some excess vibration with a clinking noise cominig from the electrical box cover. The way the cover mounts to the electrical box is poorly engineered and it rattles making a metallic clinking sound. I ended up gluing a rubber shim with PL Premium polyurethane adhesive to the top of the elctrical box so that when the cover goes on it sits on the rubber in between the two portions of raised metal which seat the cover. Then when it ran it ran quietly without any vibraton from that box cover.

Overall:

In all i'm very pleased with the buy. The instructions are decent and have pictures in them but they are very short and don't really give you as much information as I would have liked to see. Here is a good diagram for those with concerns on how to setup the lines to the compressor.

http://www.oldsmobility.com/images/ACpipinglayout1.jpg

If you have questions about setup hop onto a air compressor forum and describe your shop and your work and they'll give you plenty of good ideas on how to get the most bang out of this machine. Between building the anti-vibration stand, wiring it up and all the other little things I had to do to get this beast lifted into the shop it was some work but work well worth it. I would give this compressor a 5/5 stars and I would definitely reccomend it as serious choice for any shop who wants a high quality robust compressor. If you would like to see my compressor running "full open" during the 20min manufacturers reccomended break in cycle you can copy this link into your browswer and see my machine running

http://home.comcast.net/~theonyxabyss/aa/compressor/5441.avi

It's 7megs so it might take a moment to load. You can see it runs smooth. Most of what your hearing is my camera right in front of the globe valve which is turned "full open" letting copious amounts of air out at a deafening level. You'll never run the compressor this way after the break-in.

Now get that compressor fired up and lets start building! :P

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Amazon had the compressor shipped quickly. It arrived on time with free shipping and a lift gate delivery with no extra charge.

The compressor was bought for use in restoration/modification of autos in a private garage. The compressor replaced a 26 gal 5 Hp peak oil less compressor. The new compressor is quite and quick. From empty to full (175 psi) is just over 6 minutes. When the compressor kicks on with a DA sander running it take just around a minute to fill to 175 psi. The air is many times dryer than what I had before. The air filters are lasting many times longer.

The compressor is only 3 months old and we are waiting for authorization from Porter Cable to have someone come and fix it. In the meantime we can not work because it will not run.

Campbell Hausfeld RP3200 12-Volt Inflator and Worklight

• One 12-volt, 150 psi inflator with worklight that's ideal for roadside emergencies
• Provides fast, easy inflation of high-pressure items such as tires and sporting equipment
• Conveniently operates from your car's 12-volt outlet
• Includes 3 inflation nozzles, universal adapter, cigarette lighter plug, built-in pressure gauge, work light, and flashing hazard light
• Weighs 3.5 pounds; 1-year limited warranty

The RP3200 inflates the tire, the automatic feature operates as advertised and the device is easy to operate.

At the same time, these observations should be noted:

The vibration that occurs when it is operating is such that the device must be held down or it will jump around.

The inflation valve goes on easily, but some force is required to remove it. In the process, some air escapes from the tire.

The inflation hose and the power cable must be folded carefully in order to store them in the compartment provided on the back of the RP3200.

I would recommend this product.

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This unit is very compact, and is also very powerful for its size. The

electrical plug-in is plenty long, and the air hose is also sufficient.

I would recommend this unit to be carried in your vehicle, car or truck,

or be left in your garage or workshop for use. I'm glad I purchased

this unit

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I have owned this tool for almost a year now, and have used it regularly to maintain tires at proper pressure. Easy to use, reliable, light is useful when needed.

A tad noisy if I want to find a fault with it.

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It is nearly impossible these days to find an air hose at a gas station. Especially a WORKING air hose! This cheap little gadget solves that problem. I've had it for a little over 2 years, and find it indispensable. It's super-simple to use, and I love how it shuts off when your desired air-pressure has been reached, so you don't have to disconnect the air hose, check pressure, reconnect the hose, and try again...and again.

As others have mentioned:

It is noisy [but have you ever heard a quiet air compressor??];

It jitters around a bit on the ground while it's working [but I don't see that as a problem -after all, it can only go so far while the air hose is attached to your tire's valve stem];

The coupling seal is so secure that it's impossible to remove it from the valve without losing a little bit of air (so, you simply adjust for that by putting in an extra 2-5 PSI to begin with); and

You can only plug it into your car's 12V power outlets -you can't plug it into an home AC outlet.

And yes, you do need a little bit of patience (about 60-90 seconds' worth) to coil the air hose and the power cord back into the little cubby area. Hint: Start with the air hose first, then coil the power cord, "nest-like," concentrically within the air hose coil.

It's not fancy, and it's clearly not built for heavy-duty, frequent use. But when you need it, it does the trick. Just last night, upon starting my car to drive home after a grueling work day, the warning came on the dash that 2 of my tires were low in pressure. It had started to snow, the wind was whipping, and it was bone-chillingly cold. The last thing I wanted to do was drive around in search of a working air hose. Thanks to this little gem, all I had to do was pull into the comfort of my own garage and hook it up (after letting my tires cool so the pressure readings would be accurate). Fifteen minutes later, all my tires were inflated to the correct pressure, and I was snug & warm inside my home.

This $26 gadget is a little life-saver (and sanity-saver); it's a gotta-have-it tool for your trunk or garage!

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My car is parked at a location without AC power so I keep this small 12V pump in the trunk. It has a compartment that stores the power cord and air hose. The power cord is long enough to reach both tires on each side of the car. The pump is reasonably quick to inflate considering it is 12V. There is a built-in pressure gauge and flash light. I highly recommend it!

Air Pressure Switch For Single-Stage and Dual-Stage Air Compressor - 1/4in. Male Fitting

I own and operate a body shop in this area, and recently my pressure switch failed on my main compressor. I found this switch and installed it and now my compressor is fine again!

This compressor regulator works perfect. It also has a head pressure release that functions perfect. It replaced my old regulator and now my compressor works like it should.

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Craftsman 9-16391 Air Compressor Accessory Kit with Storage Pouch, 11-Piece

• Specially designed for use with all Craftsman and most other air compressors
• Reusable storage pouch blow gun safety nozzle extension tube rubber tip nozzle
• Quick connect coupler 2 quick connect studs
• Inflation needle tapered nozzle tire inflator
• Blow gun adapter

I use this air nozzle all the time for many applications. My favorite is to use it with my compressor to spray out computers and clean out the dust that always seems to gather inside the case. I hate those little expensive cans of air that they sell to blow out electronics. They are a waste of money and don't have enough air or pressure to get the job done. I use this tool and I make sure to hold the fan blades still so I don't over speed them and damage them. You can clean out a computer in under a minute.

I also use this to sweep the garage floor, dry off parts I have cleaned and just general purpose cleaning on many items in my garage. If you own a fairly good size compressor then you need one of these. They are very useful!

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Ok.., I should of looked more closely at the picture of the pieces, but the NUMBER 1 thing people are looking for in a Air compressor accessory kit is a TIRE CHUCK. The blow gun is nice and the needle useful for basketballs/footballs...but what these other things are for I havent a clue and 90% of people out there have no use for. I had to run to Menards to get a Tire chuck as soon as it arrived.......!

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I ordered one of these to use with my compressor. I only needed to use the air gun but figured that it was worth having the other accessories. Upon receiving the package I noticed that the quick coupler didn't work. I contacted Amazon for a replacement. When I received the replacement it also had the same problem as the first item. It seems that there is no quality control with regards to this particular item. I ended up going to my local home depot and purchasing the exact pieces that I needed.