Whistler Pro-3000W 3,000 Watt Power Inverter

I have purchased many inverters for my service truck, RV, boat, and emergency home backup, and this is what I have learned...

Buying a large inverter is confusing. Most people want their inverter to run the "continuous" loads that they have, plus have enough surge power to start air conditioners, microwaves, sump pumps, etc. Seems simple enough, but when they purchase an inverter, usually it can't handle the startup surge they were hoping. Herein is the problem: most people don't understand "Surge Duration".

Most inverters can put out more than their rated "continuous" output for surge. But the question is: How long can the inverter provide that surge? The vast majority of consumer inverters can only provide surge for 2 seconds with most less than 1 second! This is totally inadequate for hard starting appliances. I have measured the surge on my 2 hp air compressor, and it lasted about 5 seconds before it settled out to its "continuous" wattage. My 1000 watt microwave settles down at about the 3 second mark.

So what to do? Always look for an inverter with a long surge duration. The bigger inverter companies sell them, but they are usually labeled "Industrial" or "Commercial", and are much more expensive.

Which brings me to the Whistler Pro Inverters. Whistler Pro's have something they call "Smart Surge Control" that provides the surge wattage for close to 10 seconds. That is the longest I have found of any low priced consumer based inverter. I gave several a shot, and they work as advertised! They have more than enough surge duration to start my hard starting appliances like A/C, microwave, air compressor, large power tools, sump pump, etc. My 3000 watt Whistler (5000 watt surge) can start my hard starting RV air conditioner with no problem while also running my microwave!

...So add up your continuous wattage needs. Then find the wattage of your most surge hungry appliance (here is a great chart w w w.g e n e r a t o r s a l e s.c o m/w a t t a g e-c a l c u l a t o r.a s p ) and size your inverter based on those calculations.

Example:

Rated running watts ("continuous") of my lights + fridge + sump pump = 1440 running watts

Largest Surge wattage appliance is my big sump pump = 2700 surge watts

Pick the inverter that is above both ratings, in this case I would get a Whistler Pro 1600. It is rated at 1600 watts running continuous, 3200 surge.

Remember: inverters require VERY HIGH current, so the 12v cables have to be VERY large to work correctly. For larger inverters (1500 watt+) the cables need to be LARGER than the cables you see on your car battery. Large cables are expensive, stiff and heavy, but are a MUST! Your inverter will NOT run correctly without them! Follow the cable sizing guides, and don't skimp or you will be disappointed with your inverter's performance! I cannot stress this enough. Also, keep the 12v connectors clean and tight for reliable power.

Lastly, let's talk about your batteries:

Home backup, off grid or RV (large) inverter use requires more than one deep cycle battery, usually many more. Check with an inverter pro to size your battery bank correctly BEFORE you purchase your inverter.

For those of you that are running an inverter in an idling single battery vehicle, the vehicle alternator makes your battery look bigger than it is. In my truck I have a 165 amp alternator with a 1600 watt continuous inverter. It works terrific with the engine idling. I just don't use the inverter with the engine off. The continuous large current draw on an ordinary car battery will shorten its life considerably if the engine is not running. I could install a battery isolator with a second battery, but if I leave the truck idling, that isn't necessary. Remember, BIG cables, TIGHT clean connectors!

I hope this helps you with your inverter buying quest... Good shopping ;-)

Added on Jan 2 2013...

Just to clear up some confusion about using an inverter in a running vehicle:

If you draw more amps than the alternator can produce at idle, you will drain your battery. Once the battery voltage drops below about 10.5 volts, the inverter will shut itself down. Most alternators produce about 30%-40% of their output at idle. High output replacement alternators are readily available. Just Google "high output alternator". Be sure to increase the size of the alternator hot wire if necessary to support the higher amps of the replacement alternator...

Before reading, this is meant as a review and not a guide. However, I put some tips that worked for me, but this doesn't mean they'll work in another individual's situation.

BACKGROUND STORY:

Living in the NJ/NY area, we don't see a lot of hurricanes or even tropical storms. Once in a while, Mother Nature decides to give us a taste of what one can do. Originally being from MA and also living several years in eastern NC, I've seen what damage they can do. I knew some type of backup power may be necessary. Without operation sump pumps in my basement, it would certainly flood. As Hurricane Irene came bearing down on NY/NJ expecting to arrive on Saturday night, early Thursday I frantically looked for a generator. Home Depot, Lowes, Sears were already sold out across the northeastern seaboard. As you can imagine, they don't stock a lot here. Then I had an idea. A POWER INVERTER! I quickly logged on to Amazon and looked for a 3000W that could handle my two sump pumps. I paid the extra shipping fee to guarantee arrival by Saturday morning. Sure enough it arrived when promised. THANKS, AMAZON!

Well, needless to say Irene hit my area with a massive amount of rain. Eventually our local substation flooded and I had no power. The sump pump wells started to fill quickly. Thanks to my power inverter, I was able to react! I hooked it up and got those pumps running saving my basement. I saved my neighbors basement too!

So what does this inverter do? Basically it inverts power from DC (i.e. a car battery, marine battery or deep cycle battery) to AC (110V) which your appliances need to run. In the case of the car battery hook up, your car acts as a generator (recharging batter via alternator when your car is running).

THE SET UP

I knew very little about this type of equipment, but it was surprisingly easy to set-up. I followed the instructions as listed in the manual. I have replaced car batteries in the past, so maybe that's why this seemed fairly straightforward to me. If you're not familiar with car batteries, you may want someone to assist you. Be safe!

MAKE SURE YOU PURCHASE WIRES! I am referring to the cables/wires that lead from the inverter to your car battery. I didn't purchase them when I bought the inverter. I had to go to the local auto parts store and beg them to build me two about an hour before the storm arrived. This included purchasing the wire and having the proper ends added and crimped which requires a special tool. See manual for gauge required. It depends on the length of wire you need.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE GROUND WIRE (see manual for specs)

THE USE

Once hooked up to your car battery, follow the proper procedure for start-up. Then you just need to plug in your appliances into the 3 outlets provided.

Insure all connections are good!

Turn on inverter and your appliances should be powered!

Fairly simple, right?

TIPS

Purchase Whistler power cables when you purchase the inverter. If you don't, then bring the inverter and manual to a local auto parts or auto electrician to build the wires for you.

If using your car battery, one obviously doesn't want your car running in an attached garage/area without proper airflow AND ventilation. I unfortunately (?) have a detached garage which was a blessing in this case. I had my car half way in with it's tail end sticking out. Kept everything dry and no worries about asphyxiation.

You don't need the car running all the time. However, depending on the appliances you're using and how much you're using them will determine the amount of drain you'll be pulling on your car's battery. If the voltage from your car battery gets too low, the inverter will shut down and an alarm will sound. Nothing will be getting powered once this happens. You'll need to turn off the inverter, start your car engine and turn inverter back on.

Keep an eye on the voltage usage and wattage usage frequently. The alarm is not that loud, so if your neighbor is running a generator you may not hear it.

If running several appliances at once, you may need to some "power management". I was switching in and out pumps in order to avoid any overload (I was also helping a neighbor drain his basement).

Do some homework on the appliances that you're planning to run. Make sure you understand the wattage each needs to run. Remember, certain appliances like sump pumps and refrigerators need a lot more wattage to start-up than run continuously. For example, when my sump pump would start up it would pull close to 2000 Watts. Once it was running, it was only use 700 watts. So imagine your refrigerator and 2 sump pumps happen to start at the same time. You'll probably set off the auto shutdown. So just be aware of those situations.

When turning your inverter on after a shutdown, unplug all cords. Then plug one in, wait a bit, then plug in another...etc. Again, you don't want all appliances starting at same time (even though the 3000W has something like a 5000W peak...why push it???)

BOTTOM LINE:

I would recommend this item!

Buy Whistler Pro-3000W 3,000 Watt Power Inverter Now

This unit does what it promised it would do and more.

Very quiet operation and I like the way it turns off when not in use.

The fans do not run all the time, make in it even quieter.

Fast delivery service, By the way order the remote star. It is very useful if you install the unit out of the way.

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Works great! Had no problems with it and seems to be very good.

was well packaged and delivered on time.

Have not had any problems at all. Seller is 100% good in my book.

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The inverter workes as advertise. I am very happy with it. However I all so got the remote for it and I am sorry to say it did not work. If you buy this inverter do not buy this remote.

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Legacy L8305 3/8-Inch x 50 Retractable Air Hose Reel

• Levelwind layering mechanism ensures the hose retracts evenly and easily
• 3/4-inch ID swivel reduces flow restrictions and improves performance
• User can select "Free Run" for fast rewind or "Latching" to latch the hose
• Mounting bracket allows the user to secure the reel in 1 of 7 positions
• 3/8" x 50' PVC hose is included

The vinyl hose becomes unmanageable in cooler weather. I am in Austin Texas which doesn't get that cold. At temps below about 50 I cannot even get the hose to retract because it doesn't want to bend. At cooler temps the hose develops a lot of memory to where it is difficult to use. I have about given up on using it until April or so.

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The "Levelwind" hose tracking mechanism works flawlessly and makes the difference between all those "so-so" hose storage wheels and this engineering jewel. This is a quality, well-constructed product that I expect will be in service for a very long time. As a bonus, delivery was prompt and postage charges were very reasonable.

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I got this air hose reel for my boyfriend, as a gift.He absolutely loved it and uses it every day. The quality is great and he hasn't had any problems with it! I would definitely Recommend this reel!

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I was tired of tripping over twisted air hoses and ordered this from Amazon based on good reviews. I use it in a garage to work on cars primarily. I've had no problems with malfunctions in "cold" temperatures that some have mentioned. I'm in Iowa and the garage temp stays between 30-40 in the winter. Ironically, after I purchased it, I discovered that the Legacy company is only 10 miles from where I live in Iowa! Overall, it does what it's supposed to do. What else can you ask for?

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Product easy to set up and works wonderfully, I had a smaller one this is much better!!

Rheem HP50RH Heat Pump Water Heater, 50 Gallon

• High 2.0 Energy Factor (EF)
• 3 operation nodes
• Premium resistored anode rod protection, extends tank life
• Standard 3/4" NPT inlet, outlet, and condensate drain connections
• Easily replaces a standard electric water heater

My propane water heater was consuming about 300 gallons of propane a year and costing me about $900 a year. This water heater is supposed to cost me about $230/yr in electricity. With the tax credit and fuel savings, this hybrid water heater will shortly pay for itself and provide great savings and more dependable energy costs -especially since the old water heater was eight years old.

It turned out that the plumber/electrician had little trouble running a new electric line from the breaker box to the furnace room in my house. Hooking up the water heater was straightforward.

The compressor heat pump only operates a few times during the day and even when it operates, it is a quiet hum or buzz (like my refrigerator). Home Depot offers a very long protection package. Very exciting and worthwhile investment especially since new "high efficiency" propane water heaters consume about 260 gallons a year and tankless water heater heaters consume about 200 gallons of propane a year.

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Our family recently moved into an all-electric house that was equipped with an obsolete, malfunctioning solar system. We needed to replace the solar system because it couldn't keep the water hot overnight, so we had to run the tank's heating elements for several hours a day. We were literally burning through money.

We looked into a regular electric water heater, which costs about half the price of this heat-pump water heater, but my experience with running heating elements on my failing solar unit made it clear that the elements run up a high energy bill. We installed this 50-gallon Rheem water heater six months ago and are extremely pleased.

Here's why this unit works so well for us.

Our energy company charges us on a graduated scale for kilowatts used. We have four rate levels, so for the first 600 kWh we pay an average of 15 cents/kWh. When we get above that the rate goes up to an average of 24 cents/kWh. Then the power company adds another 6 or 7 cents per kWh, just because they like to and the state lets them.

The impact of this on water heating is huge. If the heater uses only elements to heat the water, those draw a lot of power and the usage gets into the higher-tier rates real soon, and the electrons get real expensive really fast.

This came into play when we had a full house during the holiday season and set the water heater to operate using the elements to heat, rather than the heat pump. After our visitors left and we set the heater to the "energy-saving" mode, our energy bill dropped $80-$100. There were other variables in play at the time, but nearly all of the energy drop was in the water heater.

We think that this water heater provides value, even though it's more expensive to install. When we compared the price of this unit with a standard electric water heater, this cost about $1,000 more. We also had to beef up our circuit box, which cost about $350. But at a savings of $100 a month, we will get the initial extra investment back in 14 months. Then that $100 monthly saving is money in my pocket for the life of the water heater. (We didn't go with a tankless electric heater because the upgrade to our circuit box to make that functional would have been enormous. It didn't pencil out for us.)

Regarding the unit's ability to heat water, we have no complaints. We push the heat setting above the standard setting and the water is hot and doesn't appear to cost that much more than the recommended setting.

Also, there was a comment that 50 gallons is too small. We have four adults living in our house, and 50 gallons is plenty. It's like any other heater: If every one takes showers one right after another, someone's going to have a cold shower. If they're spaced out, everyone gets a hot shower. Rheem's literature on the unit explains how long it takes to reheat the water, and it's pretty good. Also, I bought a good, water-conserving Alsons 655CBX Fluidics Water Saving Shower Head, Chrome for one of our showers, and I'm sure that's making a difference. I paid a little extra for that, but that also will pay off in the long run on both my water and energy bills. (I advise against picking up any low-flow shower head at a big-box store on the promise it will save water. My Alsons uses a gallon less per minute than something you'd get at Home Depot, which can conserve 15-30 gallons a day more than an off-the-shelf model, or 450-900 gallons a month. The store clerks are clueless about this.)

One thing to keep in mind is that the water heater needs 800 cubic feet of space. Ours is in a laundry room with slightly less volume than that, but it opens up to another room so it has plenty of air to draw from. It also makes some noise, because it's the same technology as an air conditioner and sounds exactly like that. It runs for a while then turns off. It doesn't trip on a lot because the unit is extremely well-insulated.

I think this water heater is ideal for a home in a warm or mild climate, because it draws heat from the surrounding air to heat the water. However, it may be challenged in a cold climate.

P.S. I'm adding this comment one year after I installed this water heater. It has met or exceeded my expectations. I have halved my electricity usage, which has cut my electricity bill by two-thirds during some months because of the tiered rate. And, according to my utility company's website, my house rates lowest on my street for electricity consumed. Considering that other houses use propane to heat or cook, while mine is 100 percent electric, that indicates that this water heater is extremely efficient. I'm very pleased with this purchase.

Read Best Reviews of Rheem HP50RH Heat Pump Water Heater, 50 Gallon Here

While it does work fine in 'normal' mode, it does not in 'efficiency' mode -one of the reasons for using such a water heater. I called Rheem and they sent out a replacement circuit board -but the problem was not solved. The problem is that as the water temperature drops (either due to water usage or just over time), the heater does not start up again until the water temperature drops to 80 degrees. This is regardless of ambient temperatures. Try to wash dishes or take a shower when the water temperature is 82 degrees and you wouldn't be happy with such a heater.

The manufacture's tech people tell me that it is working according to specifications. I don't think this is the case. And if that were the case, don't buy a water heater with such ridiculous specifications.

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Heat pump water heaters can be very efficient and reduce operating costs significantly. They have a compressor unit (refrigeration machine similar to what a household refrigerator uses) that absorbs heat from the surrounding air using a fan with a tube and fin coil on top. This model moves that heat to the water in the storage tank using a tube inside a tube coil on top of the unit, hot refrigerant gas is pumped through one tube and water from the storage tank is pumped through the other tube.

The compressor unit is a far more efficient way to heat water (over 100% efficient) but the heating capacity or recovery rate of the compressor unit is often lower than standard electric heating elements. Heat pump water heaters are equipped with standard heating elements as a backup heat source for times when demand (showers in the morning) is high and the compressor unit cannot keep up. The water heater will automatically switch to heating element operation when it sees the tank temperature dropping too far below the thermostat setting. When a heat pump water heater is using its backup heating elements it is no more efficient than a standard electric water heater (below 100%).

This unit has 50 gallons of storage. For a heat pump water heater to provide real savings it needs to have more storage so the compressor unit can store heat it absorbs during low demand periods and have it ready for your morning shower load. Added storage acts like a battery and improves overall efficiency (savings) by allowing the compressor unit to run more often than the backup heating elements. It also provides more hot water for more showers. The mistake many people are making today is they remove a standard 40/50 gallon electric water heater that can make 21 gallons of hot water an hour (using heating elements) and replace it with the same size (40/50 gallon) heat pump water heater that will only be capable of making 8-10 gallons of hot water an hour much of the time while using its compressor. They should be installing a 60 or 80 gallon model to maximize the efficiency and savings. The difference in cost between 40/50 gallon models and 60/80 gallon models isn't that much and well worth the investment.

I wouldn't pay attention to the Energy Guide (yellow label you see on many appliances) operating costs. Those costs are calculated based on outdated test procedures that do not factor a typical morning shower load; the time when a heat pump water heater is most likely to resort to heating element operation. The Energy Guide estimated operating costs work fine for standard efficiency products but they need to be revised before they will ever make sense for heat pump water heaters.

Campbell Hausfeld RP0650 12-Volt Tire Inflator

• Perfect for inflating tires during roadside emergencies
• Easily fits under the seat or in your glove box
• Hose, cord and accessories store neatly inside
• Plugs into cigarette-style lighter in your car
• Monitor pressure to avoid under and over-filling

Great item in all ways except one. When unscrewing the compressor hose from the bike tire valve, we lose 15-20 psi. I am reluctant to overfill the tire initially to compensate for this loss. If it had a quick release valve, this would be a great device with a competitive price point. Meanwhile, we will buy the Airman tour pump instead.

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I always hated going to the gas station to fill my car's tires, and probably suffered from low tire pressure in trying to put off the task for as long as possible between each fill. Once I discovered that personal tire inflator's existed, I knew I needed one to free me from the dependence of gas stations, but I was quickly faced with a wide variety of devices to choose from, and no answer as to what might be the right one for me. I ultimately went with this model for the price, and it's size, which probably is as small as you can get when it comes to tire inflators. It doesn't seem very loud (although I've never used other inflators to compare this), and the gauge is fairly accurate when I compared it to my digital gauge reader, although sometimes it appeared to over estimate the pressure just by 1-2psi. But I suppose that's better than under estimating and possibly over inflating your tires. The power cord that comes with the device is long enough to reach to all four tires on my compact car, but I'm sure it would work just as well on a standard sized car too. It just took about a minute to fill one tire with 5-7 psi of air, and considering that it is saving me the time I would otherwise make with a trip to the gas station, I would have to say that this little inflator works as fast as it needs to for my satisfaction!

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This fit in the saddlebag of my 1981 goldwing interstate and allowed me to add air to tires and to the rear shocks. It was very inexpensive. It has a spin-on valve stem attachment, so some air might escape while you're un-spinning it.

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Light, compact, works well. Love the on/off switch and built in gauge. A bit tough to stuff the hose and plug in the rear cavity, but doable.

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Gets the job done. As expected, and like other portable pumps of its caliber, it is rather noisy and it takes awhile to pump up auto tires. But, it is functional and often more convenient than a trip to the gas station.

Campbell Hausfeld G2815 7-1/2 HP 2-Stage Compressor

• 3 Year Warranty
• 7-1/2 H.P., 240V motor doesn't slow down
• Delivers an amazing 25.1/27.2 CFM at 175/90 PSI
• Includes a pressure switch, pressure gauge, oilsight and relief value
• Vertical 80-gallon ASME tank

I bought one of these for my machine shop and it delivers more than enough CFM for sand blasting, DA sanders, etc. I've got mine connected to a dedicated 50A 220v breaker on my shop panel.

IIT 10040 18-Piece Pneumatic Air Compressor Accessory Kit

• Complete set of air accessories - essential for every professional and DIY workshop
• Includes brass quick-connect coupler, female & male-threaded connectors & adapter
• 6" dual-head tire chuck, tire pressure gauge, inflating tips for sports balls & water toys
• Blow gun with over-sized squeeze trigger, rubber tip, cleaning brush & specialty tips
• Valve stem tool with valve remover, stem adapters and replacement valves

I bought this product. The moment i hooked it up, i could tell something was wrong. The tools included with mine leaked air constantly. It caused the compressor to keep running and the tool attached to keep working (when you didnt want it to). This wass especially problematic when i had it attached to a paint sprayer. It caused it to keep spraying when i released the handle.

Let's just say, one of the reasons I love amazon is because they have a great return policy.

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BUEN PRODUCTO TAL COMO LA DESCRIPCION ENTREGA MUY RAPIDA POR MEDIO DE LA EMPRESA MUY RESPONSABLE EN EL EMBALAJE 100% RECOMENDADOS

Legacy A73458D Color Connex Type D 14 Piece. 1/4 in. Red Coupler and Plug Kit

• Industrial type D connectors in all red colors
• Allows matching of couplers for dedicated hose applications.
• Push connect easy connect system
• Female and Male couplers are the same color

Have a shop on our farm and constantly using air tools. Was using the cheap chinese connectors but decided to spend a little more money and get some quality ones. Cant go wrong with these. You always know what type you have by looking at the color of them. I bought two packs and changed all my tools over to them. NOTHING leaks air anymore.....

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I've been using the cheap brass couplers (with the rubber o-ring) and fittings for several years and I always found myself fighting with the air tools to get them to connect to the coupler and also had problems with it leaking around the o-ring. It got to the point where I had to lay the air tool down on the ground and had to put my weight on it in order for it to latch into place.

I installed these as soon as they arrived and all I can say is I'm very impressed with quality. There are 4 ball bearings that secure the fitting into the coupler (inside the collar) which makes connecting/disconnecting the air tool a quick and painless process. Also, there are no o-rings you need to worry about tearing and leaking.

I would have given this 5 stars but one of the female couplers was defective which didn't allow the fittings to seat correctly. Amazon offered to send me a replacement kit if I returned it, but I installed all the fittings already so it would be too much of a hassle to replace just the one piece. Overall, it was still worth the purchase.

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We had bought several 14 pc sets and use these in an industrial environment and switch out air tools several times a day on an air line. After about a month we noticed that they started leaking air due to wear on the male coupling. After looking at them they are made of aluminum instead of the steel. They would probably good for the hobby guy that doesnt use air that much, but if you swap out tools on your airline often expect them to wear fast and start leaking air. I We won't be buying them again.

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I thought I would try this product based on the reviews. So far, the one female coupler end has worked ok when it is plugged in, however, it is leaking when it does not have a male coupler plugged into it. I have not tried all of the fittings in the pack yet...

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I work with electronics and basic construction projects daily. I have wanted a compressor for years and finally made the jump into buying one. I bought a Husky branded 8-gallon compressor. The unit was affordable and of decent quality. I went with an oil-driven compressor to save on noise pollution.

After building my compressor and breaking it in, I needed to put a few things together. I got some teflon tape, a 50' Craftsman air hose that I got on a deal, and I ordered these fittings. I wanted fittings that were of good quality, and I also wanted my materials to look nice (the compressor is red, the hose is red, these connectors are red).

In terms of pricing, they are fairly expensive. I spend 25% of what I paid for the compressor just to buy these fittings. They're necessary for everything you use, though, so I dove in and bought them.

If you're debating getting this set or the smaller 7pc set, don't hesitate. Buy the 14pc set. In addition to constructing the air hose mentioned above, I needed more connectors for the tools I bought at Harbor Freight (they don't come pre-made). Overall, I have used almost every piece that I bought just to get my basic tool collection ready for use.

Have metric wrenches ready when building your air tools/hoses!