- Heavy duty induction motor for maximum performance and efficiency
- 155 psi max pressure for optimum tool performance
- 30-Gallon ASME
- Dual voltage motor is wired for standard 120 volt outlet, and may also be converted for 240 volt application
- Fully assembled and equipped with quick-set regulator, tank and tool pressure gauges, quick connect air outlet and on/off switch for ease of use
Showing posts with label jobsmart air compressor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jobsmart air compressor. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 6, 2014
Powermate PLA1683066 30-Gallon Portable Twin Cylinder Cast Iron Air Compressor
Wednesday, July 2, 2014
Air Blow Gun w/Safety Nozzle
Tuesday, April 1, 2014
ROLAIR 2.5 HP Electric Air
- Powerful 2.5 HP motor is rated for continuous duty use
- Cast iron pump cylinder with splash lubrication ensures long service life
- Heavy duty wheels and integrated handle make it a breeze to transport and maneuver
- Handle folds down for easy storage and added mobility
- Control panel features air gauges, 2 couplers and regulator
Buy ROLAIR 2.5 HP Electric Air Now
I purchased this compressor for a small pro shop. I liked the air ratings it had, the size and price. It works well in all respects, except I'm really disappointed in how loud it is. I've used a lot of compressors, and this is about the worst. It's an unpleasant and obnoxious loud which requires ear protection in a small shop and would really suck at a jobsite. I regret not spending more and buying one of the bigger, belt driven Rolairs, which have much lower volume and probably last longer as well.I purchased this compressor to run two nail coil roofing guns. The unit does not disappoint. I have used cheap oil-less bostitch and craftsman brands in the past and rarely get a year out of them before they turn to junk, even though I take good care of my equipment. Tired of throwing away compressors....I decided to try Rol-air since their reputation is excellent and the unit seemed to match my needs. It is well built. Not a light unit, but I consider it portable. Two people required for stairs. The fold down handle is a great feature. With the handle folded, it just fits in the bed of my truck with a soft cover. It is not excessively loud, but compressors are noisy machines. Noise is not an issue for me. Quick recharge keeps us gunning. The makita 2400 was a little cheaper, but I'm glad I went with this unit. I'm a satisfied customer so far...This compressor is over-built to withstand the abuse it can get on the jobsite. Very quick recovery. Relatively quiet, considering it's a compressor. Would definitely recommend.this is a great air compressor and it will not let you down just simply check the oil and drain the air at the end of the day you will be good for many years to comeThursday, February 6, 2014
JET 649005K 22X44 Plus 22-Inch 1-3/4-Horsepower Drum Sander, 115-Volt 1-Phase
- Zinc-plated steel tension rollers mount next to the drum to eliminate slippage
- Drum height and downward pressure are adjustable to eliminate snipe
- 1/16 inch per turn height adjustment for precision accuracy
- Thrust bearing height adjustment for easy adjustments
- Large, easy-to-use cast iron height adjustment handwheel allows both radical height changes and minute adjustments for extremely precise sanding thickness control
I am rating the Performax 22x44 Plus Drum Sander with Closed Stand.
The stand is completely assembled in the box. This is the first machine that I have assembled and didn't have any extra bolts or washers. Assembly was exactly as it was supposed to be with everything lining up perfectly. All allen wrenches were provided for assembly.
I only had to tighten the brake pedal. The paint job is wonderful.
The motor assembly is extremely heavy, however, I was able to assemble the entire machine in 20 minutes.
I purchased the optional infeed/outfeed tables and think they are great but should cost less than $100, more like $50. No, they should be included, but are not necessary.
Performance: The motor is unbelievable quiet. No vibration at all. It is hard to tell sometimes if the motor is running it is so quiet. I sanded a 14 inch wide board and the results were amazing. Dust collection is a must and my Delta 1200 CFM pulls 99% of the dust.
I use a 30 AMP service for the drum sander.
Drum alignment was spot on. It was only off by .002 of an inch. No adjustment needed at all!
I give it 4 stars because the mobile base moves inline and does not allow you to easily steer the machine. I also wished the conveyor motor was a little beefier. No problems. I just would like the assurance. The motor adjusts from 0 to 10 fpm.
(Update 12-1-06: I received the "handy" tool to assist with sanding belt changes. I COMPLETELY disagree with the instructions for changing the sandpaper on the drum. It is not necessary to use this tool. I and my family think this way is much better: Attach the paper to both sides, but do NOT tighten it on the motor side as instructed. Simply tighten it by hand on the left side where you have much more room and can do it with your fingers. If you own this tool you will see exactly what I am talking about. It is so easy this way.
I am so happy I received this machine. It was given as an early Father's Day gift.
4/09 Update: If I were looking today for a sander, I would take a hard look at Steel City's dual drum sander. You can put two different grits of paper on the machine and really move things along. The price is so close. You also get two four inch dust ports on it. I would buy it now if I didn't already have the Jet/Performax. honestly
Buy JET 649005K 22X44 Plus 22-Inch 1-3/4-Horsepower Drum Sander, 115-Volt 1-Phase Now
I purchase quite a bit of tools from Amazon, but I decided to buy this sander locally. There was a sale and mini show going on, so I got 10% off, plus a rep from Jet was there and threw in some free goodies, and I still received the current rebate. That was in January. I've used it on several projects now and can offer an honest review of my experience with it.First, I'd like to start by saying my shop has become more than just a hobby shop and is quickly approaching a full time business. I felt I needed to reduce the amount of time I spend sanding. Since I already own numerous Jet machines and have been happy with their quality and service, I researched their sanders first and came to appreciate the 22-44 Plus. Out of the box(s) the machine went together pretty easily and needed only minor adjustments to be perfect. Although it did have some minor hidden shipping damage, Jet corrected that promptly.
Next came the learning curve. This is my first "real" sander so a couple sanding belts got ruined by trying to remove too much material at one time. Light cuts are the key. The crank to lower the sanding head moves down 1/64" per 1/4 turn and this is a pretty good reference to use when sanding. Sometimes I take a little more or less depending on the size and specie, but usually 1/4 turn per pass is just right for average size boards.
I've not had any trouble changing belts. After doing it a few times, it takes about 2 minutes and I don't need to use the tuff tool.
The tracking for the conveyor was a little fussy at first. I just dialed it in close and occasionally have to make a minor adjustment. This is real easy to do as Jet has put small wrenches on the adjustment bolts on either side of the conveyor. It takes about 3 seconds to make an adjustment and it can be done on the fly. Usually 1/4 turn on one of the bolts does the trick and it'll be fine for a couple more weeks.
This sander will not totally eliminate the need to hand sand with a random orbital sander, however, it will greatly reduce it. Plus it'll flatten any unevenness. T
The sander will leave a linear scratch pattern similar to a belt sander, even with 220 grit, that will need removed before final finishing. I've found loading up my random orbit sander with a slightly courser grit, the linear lines will remove with a good once-over. For example, if I drum sand to 220 grit, I can remove the scratch marks easily with a light pass of 180 grit in the random orbital sander. Also, a sharp card scraper will remove the scratch lines from 220 grit pretty easily if you prefer scraping over sanding for final finish work. Additionally, I'd recommend sending the boards through the sander 2 or 3 times on the final pass without changing the depth of cut. It'll reduce the depth of the scratch pattern and make sanding/scraping easier.
Notealthough I suppose boards could be thickness sanded, it would take a looong time, so keep the planer for getting lumber close, and then drum sand to final dimension.
I took the rebate check from Jet and bought the extension infeed/outfeed tables for the sander. They are real nice for longer boards, easy to install and very stout. When installing, keep them just slightly below (mine are .04", or the thickness of a piece of 80 grit sandpaper folded in half) the height of the conveyor or else it will not feed right. I highly recommend the tables.
The fit and finish of the machine is on par with the rest of the Jet tools I own. They do a nice job finishing their tools. This is probably the least important to me when purchasing a tool as I buy them to work, not to sit and be pretty. But still, I do take care of them and it's nice they look so good year after year.
The machine comes with casters built in to the base. The casters are fixed, so they do not swivel. Nice for moving the machine back and fourth but not so nice for moving around. I'm tall and need to raise the machine up a few inches to be comfortable anyway, so a custom mobile base is in the works.
The sander saves me an untold amount of time and produces smooth parts of equal thickness. It is connected to a Jet 1100 dust collector and sanding is nearly a dust free operation.
The machine is a joy to use. Plus, it's pretty quiet. I'd purchase it again without reservation. --daveThe Jet 22-44 is a very good drum sander. I have extensively used a Delta 16-32 drum sander for a number of years and was able to sell it for nearly what I paid for it so the upgrade to a wider unit was financially feasable. I took a look at a lot of machines and read through a lot of the operators and parts manuals. This looked to be the most foolproof, reliable, easy to operate and should have a low operational cost.
The machine came in three boxes and were very well packaged. The boxes contained the sanding head, cabinet, and conveyor belt. Assembly is very easy. The sanding head goes on top of the cabinet and then the conveyor goes inside of the sanding head. The conveyor even features ceramic guides to help eliminate creep of the conveyor belt. I have yet to adjust the belt tracking. A standard 20 amp circuit is sufficient to operate the sander. No special wiring is needed.
The smart sand feature works well on the machine. I can set the belt feed to 60 or more and the smart sand will slow the belt down when wider stock is fed through and back up when narrower stock is sanded. This feature has really made using this unit a real pleasure as I dont worry about stalling the motor, burning/gouging the stock, or ruining the sand paper. The key is don't take too much off during a pass.
Turn the depth wheel 1/4 of a turn for the next pass or 1/8 turn for highly figured or unusually hard woods like locust or wenge. I usually check the temperature of the wood on exit and put it aside if it starts to get fairly warm. No scientific data but it does seem to help eliminate spotty burn marks especially around the occasional knot that may be present. these usually will hand sand out fairly easily but why not eliminate it from the start.
Working with burl, birdeye and other highly figured woods sucepible to tearout on a planer/surfacer is very easy with this machine. It just takes a little more time to surface down these woods. Sanding surfacing makes it possible to make some very nice projects much easier.
After using it to sand over 1000 bf of oak and walnut I have no concerns. I use 80 grit most of the time and then sand with a random orbit sander with 80 and then 120 and its ready for finish. On door panels I will sand the individual parts right after the dry fit so there are no cross grain scratches. Finish sand after glue up. I have also glued up and then sanded the whole panel. in this case its better if you drum sand to 120 before the finish sanding to hel get the cross grain sanding marks out. Also becareful (as one should anyway) when gluing up to assure the style is in plane with the rail. Sometimes the clamp can cause this problem if the jaws are not perfectly parallel on the clamp. But this machime can certainly sand it flat again should this happen.
The inline stand seems a bit narrow especiallly given that the feed table overhangs it by a ways but it is not a stability issue. I dont mind the inline wheels as the machine is usually pulled straight out from its storage location for use and rolls straight back in when done.
The optional feed tables should have come with the unit but it is possible that one would not need these if running stock of less than 3 or 4 feet long. It does take up more space. I would have liked to seen a design where the table was a set of arms with a roller that would flip up then one could feed stock with the roller arm up or down and flip them up for storage. When running wide stock say 40 inches like on a table top then give the stock some support on the edge that is not under the drum head. In/out feed rollers are recommended for stock 5-6 ft and longer.
Dust collection is mandatory. And an ocassional cleaning of the paper is good too. Soft woods like pine dont do well as it clogs the paper rapidly. Hard woods like oak, walnut, et al work very well.
Changing sand paper is easy. The handy tool they give you is still sitting in the package. I found that it was easy to change the paper with out it. Though my fingers are fairly thin, others may find it difficult to pull on the sandpaper clamp. The tool would be useful in these cases. Start on the outboard side and wind your way to the tensioner on the inboard (motor) side. I re-checked the sand paper tension after running a board after changing the sand paper and found it not necessary. The right hand side has a tensioner on the sndpaper clamp and it keeps the sandpaper taught. Only a little practice is necessary and changing sandpaper is easy.
The sander came nearly perfect on the paralellism. It is easy to see that it could be a bit frustrating to set paralellism if needed but no more than say setting jointer or planer blades. In fact it should be a bit simpler as there is only the one drum to set. Careful snugging, checking, and then tightening of the bolts should eliminate any creep in the adjustment.
I did notice a curious oddity when making a thin piece of veneer od about 1/16" thick. The drum was making contact with "something" when lowering it down to the thickness of the veneer. It turned out that my dust collection system had enough suction that it was actually picking up the belt. The belt appeared to be tight enough and closing down the gate partially for the sander solved the problem. The sander doesn't need a large volume of air as the particulate size is rather small. Not often when things work too well that causes an unexpected negative consequence. I don't make veneers very often but this most certainly is one of those "not in the book" things you learn.
In short this is a great machine.
Want JET 649005K 22X44 Plus 22-Inch 1-3/4-Horsepower Drum Sander, 115-Volt 1-Phase Discount?
When this thing is tuned and working properly, it's a great machine. Alas, those moments are rare. I spend more time adjusting it than actually using it.First, setting the sanding drum parallel to the table is a pain in the ass. The owner's manual says that parallelism is set at the factory and should not hafta be set by the owner. When I received mine, it was out by 3/8"! This is a huge amount. Obviously, the quality control department was at lunch when my machine was assembled.
To set the parallelism, four bolts are loosed and a knob is turned. The problem arises from the fact that there is so much play in these components, that by the time everything is re-tightened, it is out of parallel again. So, to set it is very much a hit-or-miss process.
Second, attaching the sandpaper belt to the drum is another pain in the ass. There are two clips that hold the sandpaper, one on either end. The first one is easy to set because it is on the outboard and you can see it and reach it. But the in-board clip cannot be seen. The clearance between the drum and the frame is really tight. Performax supplies a wire thingamajig to open the clip and keep the sandpaper taut. This works kinda. But if you have bear paws for hands, forget it.
Third, it's tough to keep the sandpaper taut. Pulling the sandpaper taut, working the thingamajig and pulling the tab into the clip is an exercise in frustration. Then the belts will stretch and need to be re-tightened. And the belts will always rise away from the drum by about 1 mm where they turn into clip. The clip is at 90 degrees to the drum, so, you could crease the sandpaper so it fits better but when you do that, it weakens the sandpaper and it will break. So, with this bump, you really don't have a full 22" because it doesn't sand correctly at the bump in the sandpaper. And forget trying to sand something 44" wide-I'd rather use 36 grit as toilet paper than sand a wide face frame.
Fourth, wood burns for no apparent reason. I get these areas, usually 3/8" wide where something attaches itself to the belt and boom, there is a band of pitch that is burned onto the sandpaper and will never come off. This pitch immediately starts gouging the wood. I use a dust collector rated at 1100 CFM and I clean the belt often with a crepe rubber stick. Also, whenever I sand something greater than 6" wide I increase the depth of cut only 1/8 of a revolution at a time (1/128"). So, I've come to the conclusion that this is underpowered.
The automatic feed limiter doesn't solve this problem. In fact, if the feed limiter kicks in, at least 50% of the time, I'll get a wide swath of burn marks. So, I always feed so slow the feed limiter doesn't kick in.
Fifth, the belts break long before the abrasive is gone. And given the cost of these belts, it makes using this machine too expensive.
So, unless you like fiddling with your machines more than you like working wood, stay away from this.
Oh, there are a few good points. The stand is nice and sturdy. The casters are great. And the stand has a nice shelf to store sandpaper. Nice paint job too.
UPDATE A friend reccommended that I not use the crepe rubber to clean my belts. This has helped reduce burning a lot. So, I would now give this machine 3 stars and strongly reccommend that you do not use the crepe rubber pad sold by Grizzly for cleaning drum sanders.After looking at the units offered by Delta and Grizzly and reading the reviews I opted for the performax. The machine arrived very well packed (it came in 4 separate boxes and was delivered by two different carriers on two different days AHHH!!!). I spent maybe an hour putting things together and tuning it up. The sander was out of parallel but this was an easy fix. After assembly I noticed the depth gage was missing. A quick call to WMH customer service and I had the parts in two days(they could not have been nicer).
My only complaint is the casters are inline and do not allow for turning the machine when you move it. As for tracking the conveyer belt it took about two minutes and has not moved since. All the complaints I have read about these machines lead me to conclude that the buyers were trying to cut too deeply and to fast. I will also say that abrasive planning is definitely possible if you go slow and take shallow cuts. I surfaced a 33"X48" butcher block counter top with this sander and the results were very impressive. Like very machine in a shop, you just have to take time to learn it and its limitations. I highly recommend this tool for any small pro shop or the very serious hobbyist.
Thursday, December 26, 2013
GREX AOS368 2-Inch 105-Degree Angle Random Orbital Sander
- Patented one piece housing design for more reliable performance
- Uses standard hook and loop sanding paper of your choice
- Ergonomic housing with thermal isolator for continual usage
- Santoprene Grip for superior comfort with a variety of applications
- Ideal for corners and tight areas that an inline sander can't reach
Buy GREX AOS368 2-Inch 105-Degree Angle Random Orbital Sander Now
In the Canadian Woodworking magazine (Aug/Sep 08) it states this sander "is one of the few air sanders that can be operated on a portable air compressor" this is NOT true. This sander works less than one minute with a portable air compressor. I discovered later in the Woodcraft October Catalog that they note the sander requires a minimum of a 60 gallon capacity compressor or equiivalent to operate. I am sorry I bought this sander.Read Best Reviews of GREX AOS368 2-Inch 105-Degree Angle Random Orbital Sander Here
I'm a woodturner, and use this sander a lot for finishing bowls and other turned vessels. It's great for removing concentric scratches and tool marks that can happen when turning wood on a lathe. Mine has worked flawlessly in a busy shop for about four years so far. I keep it lubricated as described in the documentation and have had no problems with it at all. Yes, it requires a real compressor. The gallon and horsepower numbers mean nothing. If your compressor can't produce about 8 cfm of air at the required psi, expect it to run a lot. Previous reviews talking about "6 hp" compressors are going by the "peak" horsepower ratings, and not the actual running horsepower. If you're plugging your compressor into a 110v outlet, it's probably not gonna be able to keep up with this sander. (I know this because I used my Grex sander with a "6 hp" buzz bomb compressor for over a year before I got a compressor running a real 5 hp motor on a 40 amp 220v circuit.) If you've got a real compressor, this is a great tool.Want GREX AOS368 2-Inch 105-Degree Angle Random Orbital Sander Discount?
I bought this to use with lathe spindle and bowl sanding. It works great! I have a 1.5 HP 20 gallon Emglo compressor and this tool works very well with this set up. I would definitley suggest not using a pancake compressor, but the 20 gal kept up. The ability to swap out sand paper quickly and easily with the hook and loop sandpaper is a nice feature. The sanding disc paper is not cheap, but does last a good while. The safety catch takes some getting use to the first few times, but then becomes second nature. The angled head allows you to get into tite spots very easily. I really like this tool and the price is very reasonable for the quality of the tool. Options are a 3 inch disc and an extension allowing you to get inside hollow forms. Great Tool!This thing does not perform well at all! It spins well until you put against something and then it stops with very little pressure. I am running it with a large compressor (6 HP 30 gallon tank)with proper pressure and volume. It is almost useless. I wish I would have just bought a small angle die grinder instead. Don't waste your money on this tool!Thursday, September 19, 2013
Air Vent Inc. 24' Whole House Fan 54301 Attic & Whole House Fans
- Air Vent #54301 24" Whole House Fan
- AIR VENT INC.
Buy Air Vent Inc. 24' Whole House Fan 54301 Attic & Whole House Fans Now
This is a really great Fan! After my $ rebate from my electric utility, I ended paying about $ for this item. I performed the installation in accordance with the instructions and this unit is very quiet, other than the whoose from the wind going up into my attic. To be truthful, I was fearing the noise but this unit makes less noise that my stove exhaust fan! I am a happy camper with this deal, when it switched on it produces a nice cool breeze inside my home. My advice is use the template that comes with the fan, take your time, and follow the simple installation guide.Good luck with your next project!
Read Best Reviews of Air Vent Inc. 24' Whole House Fan 54301 Attic & Whole House Fans Here
I can hardly believe how effective this fan is. Our home is not an open floor-plan, so we used to struggle with getting airflow in different rooms. This whole house fan creates a nice breeze throughout the entire house (1800 sq ft). I installed this in the center hallway, and I can feel the air drafting through the furthest windows. Since you do not need to cut through ceiling joists, I was able to easily install this by myself. The most difficult part was ensuring that everything was centered before cutting through the sheetrock. I also wired this to a switch and left it on the high setting instead of using the pull chain. I work very slowly and methodically so it took me 6 hours to install, but an experienced handyman could do this in half the time. Throw away your window fans and invest in a whole house fan. You will be so happy that you did.Want Air Vent Inc. 24' Whole House Fan 54301 Attic & Whole House Fans Discount?
After many years of wanting an attic fan in my "new" home I finally bought and had this fan installed. The fan works great and is very quiet except the noise of the fan blades circulating the air zero or very little motor noise.Only two complaints.
1. The sheet metal opening at the top of the fan had 4 random dents in it. If you look at the picture, the dents were on the raised rim that circles the top of the fan blade. The installers were wondering if I should send it back because it may have been knocked around in transit. I told them to test the fan motor and continue with the install if it worked since the dents were pretty much cosmetic and only visible from up in the attic when installed.
2. My other complaint is the cheap louvers/shutters, while they work well (open and close) with the fan being on or off, are very flimsy and make random rattling noise when the fan is on. This prevents me from turning the fan on at night on the timer and falling asleep I am a very light sleeper. I can sleep with the steady hum of the fan running but the random rattling comes and goes which drives me nuts as I try to sleep. Fortunately, the way I mostly will use the fan is to turn in on an hour or two before bed to cool the upstairs and then turn it off and go to bed.
I plan to look around and if I can find quality louvers that exactly fit this fan I'll buy and switch out in a NY minute.Pro: the company: I thought there was a problem with the fan I received (it turns out there was not), so I called Attic Aire. they were extremely friendly and helpful people. Attic Aire gets an A+ for customer service. Actually, it was a desire to give them recognition for their terrific customer service which made me want to write this review in the first place.
Pro: I too mounted the fan on a thick piece of heavy wall insulation (bought from a big box store); there is very little vibration and the noise is not an issue, we don't notice it at all. I bought the 24 inch fan, perhaps the larger fan creates more vibration and noise.
Pro: we have used the fan almost every day, even when it's not hot, since I installed it: it maintains a gentle breeze and keeps the air inside the house very fresh (which can be a problem when your daughter has two house cats).
An installation idea: as mentioned, I bought the 24 inch fan; the fan comes assembled to a wooden frame; this frame is about 27 or 28 inches across. But the rafter the fan has to sit on are 16 inches apart on center (the distance across three rafters, then, is about 34 to 35 inches). So I cut 1/2 inch plywood about 36 x 36 inch square, then cut a square hole (about 25 inches across) in the center of the plywood so the fan would sit on top of the plywood without falling through. I had to cut the plywood in half in order to get it into the attic, but that did not create any problems. I then attached the heavy duty (fire-proof) insulation styrafoam to the rafters, mounted the plywood on that, then mounted the fan onto the plywood.
Another installation idea: I did almost all the work from inside the room where the fan was installed, staying out of the attic until the end: cut the hole in the ceiling, then through this hole secured pieces of 2x4's between the rafters, then mounted the insulation, then the plywood, then the fan, then attached electrical wires to the fan, then pushed the wire cable into the attic. it was only then that I turned off the power to the house and climbed into the attic to wire the fan to the house electrical system (I really don't enjoy crouching around and balancing between rafters in the attic -and needing that one tool left by mistake in the downstairs).
Good luck with your project.
Wednesday, September 18, 2013
Industrial Air ILA4546065 60-Gallon Hi-Flo Single Stage Cast Iron Three Cylinder Air Compressor
- cast iron, three cyclinder, oil lubricated pump
- one-piece cast iron crankcase and 12 inch caast iron crankcase
- 240 volt heavy duty induction motor
- splash type lubrication
- equipped with pressure gauge and on/off switch
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